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Triumph TR6 - Trailing Arm Bushings

Anyone recently change out their trailing arm bushings? I am considering replacing mine. Not sure how much improvement this will cause. Am also looking at Good's adjustable trailing arm brackets. Anyone use these in the past? Shawn 74.5
SSD Mr.

Hi Shawn

I had mine done this summer and the ride improved... feels more solid.

But then again I also did new coils and put in a shock conversion kit from BPNW. I did the shocks and springs first and still noticed a difference with the new poly bushes added later. A subtle difference but a difference. The old bushes were toast anyway so the only way to go was poly so says most.

I did not go with the adjustable TA brackets. My mechanic saw no need so I trusted him.

Ken

PS With new bushes, coils, and the tube shock kit - no more TR6 rear squat. Oh, I asked the mechanic to do the bushes since he had the hoist and stands to drop the front of TA's but not removed them. He also had the tools and strength to push out the old bushes.
Ken Shaddock

Hi Shawn

I did mine in 2005 but decided to keep it original and replaced the bushings with rubber. every one I have talked to says the polys give a superior ride. Mine were shot anyway so the ride was much improved. I still use the lever shocks.

As far as the adjustable brackets go- if you cannot get the proper alignment of the rear tires with the standard, then I would say use the adjustables. If your trailing arm members on the frame are corroded or weak- you may not be able to get the alignment and will need to make up for it with the adjustables.

I replaced my frame members with 3 by 3 by 1/8 square channel. They are as strong as an ox now.

Regards
Mike Petryschuk
Michael Petryschuk

Your alignment guy will love it if you go with the adjustables from Richard Good. A couple of notes on the hardware that come with them unless he has changed it. The bolts that connect the brackets to the frame are too short when you go to shim for toe adjustment, so eith get longer ones or hang on to your old ones. Also, I didn't like the way the threads on the trailing arm pivot bolt were not brought out past the brakcets and adjustment block. I replaced them with either AN7-41 or -42 that I ordered from Aircraft Spruce, although you should be able to pick them up from most aviation supply outfits. The AN7 is a 7/16" 20 TPI with grip length on the -41s are 3 9/16", on the -42s it is 3 11/16". AN960-716 washers (7/16 id x .063" thick)were used. The grip was given a coating of molybdenum disulfide solid film lube as well. See picture for bolts used with solid film lube applied vs. what was supplied with brackets.

Measure the bracket and adjuster block width, add in the thickness of the washers and order grip length accordingly.

I am running Richard's Nylatron bushings. Stiff, fitting is tedious, I can't really recommend for or against them, it boils down to how stiffly you want the car set up because those puppies have no give in them.


SteveP1

Thanks for the info. I plan to go with rubber based on a recommendation from my frame repair specialist. As you indicate, lots of different views on rubber vs poly, etc. I may change rear springs as part of the project. They are incredibly stiff with barely any movement in rear. Shawn.
SSD Mr.

This thread was discussed between 24/10/2009 and 29/10/2009

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