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Triumph TR3 - Timing Chain Oil Deflector

Is the oil deflector disk that fits on the timing chain sprocket at the end of the crank shaft supposed to turn freely, or be "driven" by the keyway? Mine has a notch in it, presumably to fit over the first woodruff key when installing, but it then turns freely up against the sprocket, not being in contact with either of the woodruff keys on the shaft. Is this the correct fitting for the deflector?

While we're on a subject under the timing chain cover, the new pedestal stud (which I purchased to replace the jury-rigged bolt arrangement I found in its place) screws into the block using the shorter fine-threaded end, leaving the longer coarse threaded end to protrude through the timing chain cover. This doesn't seem right. The makeshift bolt I removed also had the fine threaded end in the block. One would think the longer coarse threaded end would be used for attaching to the block.

I can see it doesn't make any difference to the clearance for the timing cover, but I'm wondering if someone reamed out the stud hole in the block and changed it from coarse to fine thread.

Thanks for help on either or both issues.

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A
Bill Stagg

Bill - I think the slot is only to let you put the oil slinger on, without having to remove the key.

In my experience, one would think that the cast iron block should have the coarse threads as with the bellhousing bolts, the studs for the manifolds, the pan bolts, etc.

Do what you think you have to. No-one will see the difference. Keep a note of it for future reference. If nothing falls off, leave it that way.

Sorry, I'm not going to pull my valance and rad to check mine as to which way it should go.

Good luck

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Bill, my timing cover is still off, as I just finished re-painting it. I'll look at the stud tonight and let you know what my car's arrangement is. (Tues. 3/18/03)
Mike
Mike Gambordella

Hi Bill:
Like the other bolts holding the cover on, the stud should be coarse threads in, fine threads out. Presumably because fine threads are more resistant to backing off. Maybe someone stripped the stud previously, hense the reversal. Like Don said, it doesn't really matter. Maybe use lock-tite on the nut?

Did you get a "fiber washer" with your new stud? I see Moss Motors has one listed for use behind the cover. My cover has what appear to be two copper washers; one inside, one outside. (different sizes too) I don't see how a fibre washer stops pressurized oil from leaking, and why would they use a degradable material inside the engine?

I contemplated using a rubber one, but that's degradable as well.

Thoughts anyone?

Mike '56 TR3
Mike Gambordella

I don't remember what I used but I think they were fiber washers like I described in an earlier thread on this subject.

I used red Loctite gasket maker on the fiber washers. The oil is only dripping, slinging and spraying around. There shouldn't be any pressure build-up with the ventilated oil filler cap. I assume that a fiber washer between the face of steel washer and/or the face of the steel timing cover should be no different than like a small round gasket covered with gasket goop.

Both the fiber washers as well as the copper washers should be available at your friendly local Ace Hardware store.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

This thread was discussed between 17/03/2003 and 19/03/2003

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