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Triumph TR3 - Separating Telescopic Steering - Late TR3A

I just realised that this is the first time I have ever asked a question here. No, it's not because I'm shy !

I am restoring a late TR3A (TS 81551 L) which has a split steering column that is out the car. In fact I have over 15,000 parts that are out the car. All the manuals show the non-split steering column like the one I have in my own early TR3A.

Half way down the split steering column is a collar which secures the upper and the lower shafts together on what appears to be knurling (as opposed to real splines) on the OD of both shafts. I have the two nuts off.

How does one separate these parts ?

Also, just inside both the steering tubes, one just above and one just below the collar mentioned above, there seems to be a seal of some sort with 1/4" diameter pins or the like.

What are they ? Why are they there and how do they come out ?

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A TS 27489 LO
Don Elliott

Don,

I have the same split column in my TR. Though I haven't separated the column halves, here's what I've picked up from Randall on the TR List:

"Obviously you'll start by removing the control head and stator tube. Probably the easiest way to remove the coupling is to take only the lower pinch bolt loose first, then yank up on the steering wheel to pull the coupling off the lower shaft. Then remove the upper pinch bolt, and yank again to pull the coupling off the upper shaft. Might as well remove the wheel and upper shaft completely, this is probably a good time to replace the bushings in the upper column (if you haven't already)."

Regarding the collar and pins, this piece from another lister may apply:

"For your consideration.. you can really tighten up your steering column by doubling up the rubber/nylon bushes. Buy 4 instead of 2. Cut the nibs off two and pack em in right next to the standard positoned ones(nibs pop into holes in column). The extra bushings will not only make it last longer - they ride on new area of shaft - instead of the slightly worn areas from before - for a better fit. A little well placed white lithium on the steel shaft makes for effortless
turning. Lots of other sports cars seem to use metal ball bearings here so the cost of two extra plastic bushings seems reasonable. Ps; also helps to make sure column supports are not sloppy underneath dash."

And try this Q&A exchange, with the A coming from Randall:

Q: "I have a TR3 "Split" steering column and bough a nylon/rubber steering bushing MOSS # 525-020 that is meant for the split column (Up at the end of the column where the steering wheel fixes on to stop the slop of the inner shaft to the outer pipe). When I go to fit it I found to my horror that it is too small. Is it possible I need the felt bushing 520-050 to be used with the split column?"

A: "The steering wheel end gets a felt bushing for both split and solid columns. For a split column, you also need two of the nylon/steel/rubber bushes, they go next to the coupling, one in the upper half and one in the lower half. The factory SPC is confusing on this point (the entire upper half of the column is listed as "CLAMP SUB-ASSEMBLY" but the felt bush is not relisted), and the Moss catalog is simply wrong."

And lastly, this:

"I havent done it, but I have looked at it and I recall is straightforward to do but a press or perhaps a length of threaded rod will work. ISTR you get a long enough rod and try to push them out, but its possible that you push them inward and they come out of an access hole in the column, I just dont remember right now. But first I would check the steering column felt mountings. Try grabbing the column and wiggle it. If the whole column moves, then it's the mountings. Usually you can look from underneath the column and visually see if there’s play. Try both ends of the column (the one in the passenger compartment and the end in the engine compartment). Then try to wiggle the steering wheel. If the column is stationary but the wheel moves, then its the bearings."

Hope some of this is helpful. Please let me know as I'm "going in" this winter.

Thanks, and regards.

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A
Bill Stagg

Thank Bill for the input. I got the coupling apart with a small cold chisel and tapping it into the split in the collar. This wedged the slot wide open and the shaft and collar came apart easily. Then I did the other end of the joining collar the same way. It turnrd out to be quite easy.

Now I'll have to figure out how to remove the seals. One of your replies mentions the rubber/nylon bushes with the nibs on them. I'll try pushing on the nib and see if it will slide out.

Were you aware that Randall Young from So. Calif. was my navigator in the fun rally at VTR held in July in the rain and mud at The Roadster Factory.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

This thread was discussed between 04/12/2003 and 05/12/2003

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