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Triumph TR3 - Petrol Tank removal
| OK, I have gotten from the carbs to the fuel tank, it is rotten. I removed everything from the trunk, removed the vent line, disconnected the straps, dropped the supply line, the drain plug and removed the fill hole and rubber connector, after much dismay I have figured it must come out through the cockpit. I cannot find anything that aids in disassembly so I don't mess up the interior as it the best part of the car. Does anyone have any information on the tank removal? I think a bladder will be the ticket but it has to come out first. Thanks for any help. And yes it is a 60 TR3A |
| Bert |
| In the TR2 Service Instruction Manual (502602) in the fuel section, paragraph 2, To Remove Petrol Tank there is a 9 step procedure to remove the petrol tank. The last step says "the tank can be removed from the car in a forward direction". That is probably the only way to get it out. It did not mess up the cockpit too bad when I took the tank out as the only parts that had to come out was the cappings and the back of the back seat. You have to remove gas, carpet, capping, bolts, electrical, and I had to remove the back of the back seat (secured by screws and retaining clips)to get the petrol tank out which does not seem to be mentioned in the TR2 Service Instruction Manual. Also had to remove the top part of the capping on both sides above the quarter panels. Maybe the TR2 does not have the same back seat design. Anyway that is the way I removed it from my TR3. Good luck! hjr |
| hjr |
| There's a vendor that sells new tanks on ebay. Can't remember his real name. I think his username is angeheartpancho. His crew in San Diego (?) makes TR bumpers and overriders too. And some Jag parts. The price has gone up lately from about $200 to about 260. I hear they're made of heavier gauge steel than the originals. You have to specify center or side outlet. The tank comes out the inside, kind of a pain if the top is on, the seats are in, etc. It's better to take the top off and the seats out besides all the things mentioned above (which really isn't a huge deal) so you you can get in and pull the tank back and up. The filler tube always gives me a fight when it goes back together. I have considered a strip of wood or something less absorbent to pad the bottom of the tank, that horsehair holds the water and rusts the tank from the outside, as you can clearly see. I think I used rubber weatherstripping (not foam) under the last tank I put in. Maybe you can find a welder that can cut your tank apart and weld a new bottom on it. Most guys want to avoid gas tanks, and might have to charge what the new one costs anyway. I have successfully used fiberglass cloth and resin to patch a tank from the outside, but it's tedious and maybe not very safe. I also had to extend the straps a little because of the added material on the bottom. This is part of the reason I had to fight with the filler tube, too. Persevere, it will run again. |
| Tom |
This thread was discussed between 16/09/2005 and 17/09/2005
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