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Triumph TR3 - Handcrank Guide Stayrods

Stuff you discover when you remove the radiator...

My hand crank guide did not have stayrods installed. I've latched on to some rods that came with a bolt for the guide, but I cannot tell how they are are supposed to mount to the frame or body. Is there a separate bracket to which the threaded ends of the stayrods connect? The threaded ends came with nuts rusted on and the threaded ends beyond the nuts were bent at a slight angle.

Many thanks.

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A

Bill Stagg

Bill - There should be two rods. Both should be bent at a slight angle near the transition where the rod is threaded. Grind off the rusty nuts but not down beyond the threads. Run a die up the threads to clean them up. The other end should have an "eye" in it. By that, I mean that the other end of each rod should have been hammered flat with a hole through the rounded washer-like flange.

The holes in the round ends are secured with a bolt, washer and nut via the transverse hole through the bottom of the "crank steady" which will be below the bottom of the flat horizontal valance plate.

The threaded ends that are bent slightly each extend outwardly on about a 45 degree angle and the threads fit through a hole in an ear which should be found down there to each side. Each of these ears are about 2" by 1" and about 1/8" thick.

Run a nut and a washer up the threads first, then fit the threaded end loosely through the hole in the "ear". Run another flat washer, a lock washer then a nut up the threads. Leave it all loose.

Fit the top end cross bolt through the "eye holes" and through the "crank steady".

Then tughten it all up. Not just to be tight for support, but having two nuts on the end of the threaded ends allows you to adjust the rods up or down so the centerline of the "crank stady" will be perfectly aligned. To check this put your hand crank through the hole in the grille, through the hole in the "steady" and throught the hole in your rad. Push it further in till it lines up and engages the two stepped cams on the front end of the huge crank bolt.

Then tighten the support rods below and re-try. When you insert the crank, it should line up with the crank handle at about 2 o'clock when engaged with the two step cams. Push down on the crank to turn it. It's easier for now if you take out the sparkplugs.

When you want to really test it, put the plugs back in and repeat as above. Pull the choke cable out half way. Turn on the ignition key and make sure you are in neutral with the hand brake on. Lift the hood and have your left hand ready to "blip" the front linkage for carb # 1. to help it catch.

Push down on the crank at the 2 o'clock position. It will start. "Blip" the carbs. If not, the crank should return to the 2 o'clock position by itself. If not, you have to do it. Push down again.

Don't worry about the stories from the 20's about getting your wrist broken while cranking a "T" Ford. The TR has the two stepped and tapered cams on the end of the crank and the front of the crankshaft bolt. When you engage it, the flat steps give you the torque. When it starts, the sloped cams will cam out or throw out the crank and you will have no problems with your wrist.

You may get a sore arm or back it you try too often without success, but at car shows, I let people try to start it with the crank while I stand to one side to "blip" the throttle. They are amazed that cars had cranks, how easy it is to do and finally they can't believe that it started without a sound. Just a squeak from the crank as they turn it and a purr from the engine after it has started.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A TS 27489 LO
Don Elliott

Don,

Thanks for the wonderfully detailed explanation. I appear to be good to go except that I have no ears. That is, I have nothing to which I can attach the bent theaded ends of the stay rods. The frame cross member that runs side to side down there has only one "ear", and it is located in the center, sticks out toward the front and is threaded for what a 1/4" bolt that would be inserted vertically. There are no other logical or obvious mounting places. Are the ears supposed to be on the frame crossmember? Are they welded on or sold extensions?

Thanks for the help!

Bill
Bill Stagg

Ahh...I found the attachment "ears" in a photo of the frame in Piggott's restoration book. Mine have apparently been cut off, however I can see where they were. Perhaps I can add them back as I put things together.

Thanks again for the help, Don.

Bill
Bill Stagg

This thread was discussed between 16/02/2003 and 19/02/2003

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