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Triumph TR3 - Carburetor Rebuilds

Hello all:
I have finnaly completed my refurbishment - however, there remains one sticking point with which I require assitance.

I rebuilt my H6 carbs with the TRF supplied overhaul kit and the "gland washers" supplied for the jet heads were quite diffrent than the originals. So much so, that they didn't want to fit at all, so I put the originals back in, which of course resulted in gas leaking out the bottom of the carbs.

So - I put in the newly supplied peices only to have the same results. Admittedly, I think I damaged the new gland washers upon installation because of thier inordinate size. But what are the alternatives? I have tried to contact the tech line at TRF but haven't gotten through yet.

Has anyone else run into this?
Any thoughts on the subject would be much appreciated.

This is keeping me from driving this beautiful car!

Thanks so much,
Mike Gambordella 1956 TR3 Comm. # 9865-0

BTW - Congrats to all the winners at TRA 2003!
Mike Gambordella

Mike-The cork seals should be soaked in oil overnight before installing. That said, last year I rebuilt some for carbs for a person using kits from TRF that were branded "Royz". The jet seals seem to be coated with a graphite impregnated shellac that remained hard after soaking in oil. This prevented the seals from compressing and the jets leaked. If that is your problem, a complaint to Charles should be made. The larger cork seal should also be soaked in oil and compressed untill it is barely visible.

Berry

Berry: The jets seals I got (no name on the package or any of the parts) were black in color which initially made me think they were rubber, so I didn't soak them in oil. After they became somewhat abused trying to install them, I noticed they seemed to be cork coated w/ something, which I again assumed to be rubber.
(it might be time for eye glasses)
So it wasn't that they remained hard, but rather they took up so much room in the assembly, when compressed, I couldn't get the jet head up inside. Plus, they are of larger diameter than the copper mates.
So I assembled everything w/ the jets "pre-installed" (which is not the Haynes manual method)
However, that resulted in not being able to slide the jets up and down - they were too tight.

I did soak the larger locking nut seals, but wasn't sure how much to tighten down on them.

Anyway, thanks for your input. I'm going to try and talk to TRF today.

Mike
Mike Gambordella

Hey guys: Problem solved - TRF tech was very helpful.
Turns out they rebuild with rubber o-rings, not cork seals. (I hope they change over the kits in the future)
So if you're going to do your carbs, make sure you get o-rings with your rebuild kit. Moss Motors also sells them. (called out as a leak-proof replacment)

Mike
Mike Gambordella

Hey Mike,

I had the same problem with a rebuild kit I purchased through a fellow TR owner. The cork seals for the jet would not fit in the metal retainers. It made the jet very hard to move with the choke linkage. I picked up the rubber o-rings and am about to install them.

One of my carbs was already leaking before I rebuilt it, and I attributed this to a poor fitting between the hollow bolt (mounting the float chamber) meets the bottom of the carb body. I'll try the new o-rings on the jet and a new hollow bolt (the face of mine was knicked up and possibly not sealing well against the fiber washer.

Here's hoping you get it right with the o-rings. Time to get out and drive that car!

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A
Bill Stagg

This thread was discussed between 08/07/2003 and 09/07/2003

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