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MG TD TF 1500 - What tool for opening shock reservoir?

Such a giant nut, what is everyone using to check and add shock fluid?
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Edward, have always been told not to open this up. Peter C in Wisconsin repairs them if ness.
Tom Maine (TD8105)

When checking to see if there was any fluid in my shocks when I rebuilt it, I used a very large crescent wrench, with a piece of inner tube in it to prevent marring.

If fluid is low, rebuild is indicated and Peter C at World Wide Imports is one, if not the best at rebuilding. Peters service is great and the shocks are guaranteed to not leak.

Bruce Cunha

Tom
If I don't open, how would I know if it needs rebuilding, or topping up? Do I just use them until they fail?
Edward
E.B. Wesson

The TD tool kit came with a monkey wrench, AKA Ford wrench for removing the cap. The cap is very difficult to open due to the rubber gasket getting fouled in the very fine threads. Bruce is correct - send the shocks to Peter at World Wide Imports http://www.nosimport.com/ You will get back a better than new shock with an iron clad lifetime warranty - without a doubt the best investment you will make in your car. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

The TD and TF handbooks mention checking the fluid level every 12,000 miles (back in the days before they needed rebuilding).

Matthew.
Matthew Magilton

Some rather confusing advice here.

I assume we are talking about the Girling shocks, since they have the large cap.

You haven't given us any history on these shocks so I'll assume you don't know them to be leaking at this point.

Of course you should open them up and check the fluid level. Top them up, if necessary. Then take a test drive and check for leaking. If they aren't leaking and they are working properly (see below) then they don't need a rebuild. Sometimes a leak takes a while to show itself, so check them periodically.

To check for proper operation, bounce the fender up and down a few times, then let go. If the bouncing stops within a half bounce, then they are fine. If the fender continues to bounce(and the shocks have the right amount of fluid) then they need a rebuild.

The Girlings are sturdier and more durable than the zinc alloyed Armstrongs, so keep 'em if you got 'em.

I also recommend Peter Caldwell at World Wide for a rebuild. Before I knew he existed I had a set rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics. They didn't last 500 miles and I ended up sending them to Peter to be redone.
David Littlefield

Edward, We made a tool once, but it was unsatisfactory. Honestly, we use a large pipe wrench with filed off jaws, but we still end up filing a little on the cap. Heat is your friend. Use a propane torch, and then use anti-seize to assemble. We make a new cap gasket that is a little more friendly than the original. Peter
Peter Caldwell

Thanks for the info...
With the chassis off the ground, and totally exposed, seems like a good time to check the shocks for fluid....
I haven't really noticed any leaks, but I have shock fluid, and thought I would top up, if needed....
Hoping that a rebuild is not in my near future.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

If they have never been rebuilt, I doubt there is any fluid left. You can easily remove the rear lower link stud and move the link/arm up and down. It should have stiff, even resistance. Fronts more complicated, read the factory shop manual. Much easier to remove if just bare chassis than with fenders in place. George
George Butz

I took my shocks off the car---put them in a vise---then used a pipe wrench, an extender (piece of 2" pipe)
for leverage and lots of WD-40----the caps came off with some gentle persuasion--I was able to check the oil level, clean the shocks and caps, and reinstall with new bolts and/or nuts-----my fenders were off at the time--made for an easyish job-----------good luck---
TCK Tom

Well, I did as Peter suggested, and used a 14" pipe wrench, then , as TCK did, I used a 3' pipe on the handle....First , I wrapped the nut with electrical tape, to help protect it....
Mine was easier, as the body was off, and the shocks were bolted to the frame.
The good news is, the PO had (thankfully),already put in new seals, and filled the reservoirs, so nothing was needed.
Thanks for the help, as usual!
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Good day all:

I have just honed in on the Luvax-Girling damper thread, removal of the filler cap.

Firstly; if any repairs are deemed to be necessary, by all means use the services of World Wide Auto Parts, of Madison, Wisconsin. Mr. Caldwell's firm has rebuilt TC and TD units for me and the bits are marvellous.

As to the removal of the TD damper, filler cap; I found that in situ, I was unable to fit an adequately sized spanner due to the limited space presented.

The attached photograph (I hope) was fashioned out of a piece of flat steel, one-quarter of an inch thick (1/4") and about eleven and three-quarters inches in length (11-3/4"). The nasty bit was filing the one and seven-eighths inches (1-7/8") hex-head opening, to fit.

But as previously mentioned, in this series of replies, the use of a propane torch; could pose a bit of a "sticky wicket" whilst the damper is still mounted to the car.

Anyway I have submitted this just for foood for thought. My expertise is very limited but I have found the jury-rigged tool has served me quite well. And off the car, it becomes as child's play.

Respectfully submitted:
Jack Emdall, TD 3191, New Westminster, British Columbia, Canada

kernow

Good day again:

I forgot to include, in my last writing, that the tool is meant to handle the caps, in situ, with the wings removed.

I reckon you had that figured out, but at 71, I sometimes forget points. My brain function still gets far ahead of my typing ability see and somewhere inbetween things generally go amiss.

Cheers then;
Jack Emdall.
kernow

Jack
Nice work!....
That little bit of engineering would take me about two weeks, and the help of a plasma cutter, (which I do not own), to make....
In addition, I would need a three-foot handle.
How did you deal with the taper on the nut?...Mine are so tapered that the inside of the wrench would have to be tapered to match.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

E.B. - I made a wrench out of 1/2" birch plywood. after I cut the hex I filed the flats to chamfer them slightly.( both sides so it could be flipped) Took me about a half hour to make. It withstood the tapping with a hammer to loosen the caps. Now that they are loose it will be invaluable to have to check the dampers periodically. If you are interested I will post a picture.
C.R. Tyrell

You shouldn't need to check the oil level in the dampers after the first time, unless they show wetness around the shaft packings. The oil doesn't burn or evaporate. If any is lost it is from the shaft area.

Peter C
Peter Caldwell

C.R.
I don't think a plywood wrench would have removed mine...
Couldn't budge them with just the monkey-wrench...Needed the long pipe to give me the leverage...And mine had anti-galling compound on the threads!...I think the PO was Atlas!
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Ed,
I had a tough time with mine as well. I used plywood cause that is what I had. Worked out well though. It is now a wrench to keep in the toolbox. When I put the caps back on I just brought them to the gasket and then a 1/4 turn. After all isn't what a rubber gasket is for? The biggest surprise was the dampers were still full and work well. Not bad for 60 years!
C.R. Tyrell

This is a picture of the tool I made for removing the cap. Its wood, not overly large, and I offset the handle so I could grab it easier in the tight spaces available. It is made from 1/2 " baltic birch and has 10 laminations. It is quite strong, and does not damage the cap.

C.R. Tyrell

Good day all: Attn: Mr. Wesson

Regarding the spanner (wrench) the caps on my dampers do not appear to be greatly tapered at all. The measurement, for the hex-opening, was taken from the side profile of the cap, not across the top. Also, I used a spare unit rather than try to work on an in situ example.

I had never removed the dampers, other than to clean them for repainting and replaceingwhen when I first restored the car in 1971. I did not know the original colour scheme so I painted it M.G. red with a black interior and wet weather gear.

I later learned from tracking down the first owner, who supplied a colour photograph taken in Halifax, N.S., Canada, that it was almond green with a biscuit interior.

I knocked it down again, in 2004, and redid the interior as originally outfitted. During this refit, I decided to check the dampers and I created the pictured tool. Furthermore; I recall having to use a section of steel pipe, to provide the MA necessary, but I also cheated a bit further by applying gentle heat using a very small flame producing butane torch.

Cheers all, a belated Merry Christmas and all the best for 2012 and M.G. enjoyment.
Respectfully:
Jack Emdall, TD3191, New Westminster, British Columbia, Canada.



kernow

This thread was discussed between 15/12/2011 and 25/12/2011

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