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MG TD TF 1500 - TF rear spring shackles

TF guys
I question if my rear springs are set up correctly. Can one of you TF guys who believes your rear springs are properly set up, post a photo of the rear shackles from the side? I want to see the "angle of the dangle" of the shackle plates. The WSM, which features a TD, shows the shackles leaning to the rear of vertical. On my TF, the shackles angle to the front of vertical. Obviously, the set up will affect the camber of the rear spring. Which is correct for TF? Of note, my rear springs have been replaced at some point. I trust they were proper for TF, but cannot be sure. Can't see any numbers or markings on them.
Thanks!

Tom
'54 TF
Tom Norby

Tom, I can't seem to make my photo small enough to upload but my original shackles are vertical. But I must add that the car is in the process of stripping and the rear stuff from the wooden back of the tub has been removed.
Don TF4887
D J Walker

Tom, I take a ton of photos before stripping a car for restoration. Here's a shot of the right rear shackle before the TF was stripped. PJ



P. Jennings

Don, Paul
Thanks. That helps. If mine are leaning forward of vertical, it will give the rear springs more camber and more rise, correct? I wonder if it is worth the effort to try to verticalize them??

Tom
'54 TF
Tom Norby

Spring shackles are constantly in motion moving back and forth depending on the load and road bumps. A new spring will have more arc than an old spring which has taken a set.
JE Carroll

I put new springs on mine and this is how they set themselves up.

The angle is set by the arc in the spring. I can't see how you would alter it other than by adding weight to the car.

AJ

A R Jones

The other thing to consider is if there is a load on your springs yet. If your chassis is bare, then the shackles will be forward due to the lack of all the weight.

Alex
Alex Waugh

JE Carroll, thank you! I did not understand that the shakles were dynamic. I thought they were tight and fixed. Good thing I did not waste time trying to make adjustments. I love learning from you guys (and the one girl)!

Tom
'54 TF
Tom Norby

Tom,

As long as they are basically in the down position, the shackles will work. It's when they flip all the way up due to too much arc/not enough weight when new that they need to be levered back (protect the paint first). Make sure your front bolts go inboard to outboard, or they won't come off when the tub is in place.

Also, suspension fasteners need to have the full weight of the car prior to tightening. Otherwise things should be left fastened, but free to adjust. This includes (Front) the A-arm bolts through the spring pan, the upper and lower trunion bolts, the rear A-Arm bushings and (Rear) the spring shackle nuts, the forard spring bolts and the U-bolts.

The last thing I did before driving my car the first time was tighten and safety all those bolts. Some say to put your weight in the car first, and it probably is a good idea to do so.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Can get a pix for you today, under load, if that will help.
David Sheward

I'm good Dave. Thanks all. My car in intact and assembled. I merely had a gross misunderstanding of what goes on with those rear shackles. Now I understand that they move, and mine are in good position. Not that far out of line with the photos already posted. I'm leaving them alone.
But.....I think I will take the safetys off the front suspension bolts up front and make a final tightening of them with the car on the ground under load. I did work on the front suspension 2 years ago. Replaced the A arm bushes and some trunion rubbers. I am not sure I did the final tightening like Dave B describes.
BTW, all those bushes and rubbers have held up good after 2, maybe 3, years and about 4k miles.

Tom
'54 TF
Tom Norby

This thread was discussed between 04/11/2011 and 05/11/2011

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