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MG TD TF 1500 - TF cowl to firewall packing
| Have most body panels ready for a test reassembly, prior to paint. Does anything (rubber strip?) go between the firewall and the body tub? thanks, Tyler |
| C.T. Irwin |
| I used a non-hardening auto body sealer to keep the water out and the wood dry. It comes in a tube and easy to use. Auto body and paint supply stores are the source. |
| Jim Merz |
| thanks Jim. Like silicone? |
| C.T. Irwin |
| I believe it was some mixture other than silicone. It is used/was by professional body repair shops to seal replacement parts to the adjacent original pieces. Probably the best thing to do is drop into a repair shop and ask. I think that's what I did years ago. |
| Jim Merz |
| Or, stop at a NAPA store. It's a standard product. Bud |
| Bud Krueger (TD10855) |
| Do not use silicon. It is not compatible with auto paints. |
| Max Irvine |
| Eastwood sells a product that is a flexible black caulk that comes in long round lengths that is probably very similar to what was originally there. I have been trying to decide what to use and it is between that and seam sealer. My tub is alread painted so trying to figure out which will not squeeze out and make a mess.... |
| Richard Taylor TD3983 |
| I went to an industrial seals place (everything from o-rings to gasket materials) and bought some 1/8-in neoprene rubber, and 1/8 and 3/16-in rubber impregnated cork, all sold by the foot. I ended up making a gasket from the neoprene. I think the firmer cork would have been better. The lip of the scuttle (I think this is what you are referring to -?) is quite thin, and when torqued down there was a bit of deformation as it compressed the neoprene. I think the 1/8-in rubber/cork would have been perfect. Jim |
| J Barry |
This thread was discussed between 30/07/2011 and 31/07/2011
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