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MG TD TF 1500 - Removing inner tie rods..How is it done?

I have to change inner tie rods on both sides of my steering rack. I have the ball sockets removed from the rack but they will not come apart to release the tie rod. Any help would be appreciated. I haven't heated them up ....yet! Never have I delt with something so tight.

I hope the threads inside are RH. Help!
C.R. Tyrell

Hi C R,

They can be very tight - worry not - they will shift! If you've not looked before plenty of good advice in the Archives, some from me I believe. WSM special tools are good but not essential, and any markings from use of Stillsons etc cannot be seen once refitted and inside the bellows!

Good luck,

John
J C Mitchell

Per Horst Schach, if you file a flat on each side of the male end of the ball housing, you can grip the ends in a vise, and then turn out the rods.

To remove looseness in the ball socket, you can simply shave down the face of the female cup.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

C.R., I'm not sure exactly what you are referring to since it's been about 2 years since I did mine. But I remember using a puller sort of "in reverse" to "push" certain parts apart. I took a picture at that time, see below. I remember turning that wrench until something popped and I was very happy!
If this helps, good. If not, never mind,
Ed


efh Haskell

Thanks Dave B. I have Horst Schach's book on order....I have heard it is the "bible". I was fortunate to find an old copy for sale. I was not sure if modifying the part in that way would harm it. Good to know that is an option.

I am in the midst of fabricating a tool set to help take them apart. If i get it made and it works i will take a pic and post it here. Bear in mind I am not a machinist!

ED.... You showed the outer tie rod end and that I have had no problem with except that the PO had welded it to the tie rod (hence one of the reasons I am disassembling). I did get it removed without any further damage.

I am going to give it another try tomorrow... let you know how I made out. After checking the archives I know what to expect inside.

Thanks again all!
C.R. Tyrell

I had to remove some shims on TD 28929 to get the right side tie rod end tight. I filed flats in each side, put it in the vise then put a pipe wrench on it, with a six foot pipe. Nothing. I heated it up red hot, nothing. I hit it with a bfh, nothing. Several hours of this and I gave up. The next morning it came right off. I don't know why.
-David
D. Sander

Well..... I made a tool. A crude thing of beauty. Used 3/16 drill rod set in two 1/4" thick washers. Welded that to an old socket, welded the assembly to an 18" bar.

Got an 1-1/4" castle nut and welded bits of 1/4" keystock in the appropriate castles.....held the ball socket like there was no tomorrow!

Clamper the tool together on the tie rod socket with a pulley puller so It wouldn't pop off under pressure....held my breath, put 200 ft/lbs of torque..... Nothing moved. Tried again....sheared both drill rods clean off.

Think I will just order new parts from Moss!
C.R. Tyrell

Not so fast! I don't think the parts are avalable. Abingdon has the shims and the lock tab. I think the tie rod is. NLA.
-David
D. Sander

I looked at the Moss catalogue, and sure enough Tie rods are N/A. I think I may be able to have the ones i have straightened at a good machine shop. Annoying to say the lease.
C.R. Tyrell

I have tried to remove the inner tie rods by every imaginable means.... still "no soap".

I cannot seem to separate the male and female ball socket. I made a holder for the female socket that holds it very well, and solid. ( made from a 1-1/2'' castle nut and 1/4'' key stock) filed "flats on the edge of the male socket ... still it will not budge. Tried heat as well. Got one spot glowing red hot... still it would not let go.

Is it possible that these parts "gall" together?

Good news is, I found new inner tie rods, and the male and female sockets are still available.
C.R. Tyrell

John Twist has lots of great videos. This one might help. Mike
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQ428hwJn38
Mike Hart (52 TD 16378)

Success!

Dave B. I did cut a couple of flats in the male ball socket edge, sprayed it with penetrating oil for two days.... clamped the flats in the vice and used the holder I made and the biggest wrench I have... then hit the wrench with the heaviest hammer I could manage....and then it moved slightly. Once it moved the rest was easy. The female socket is bronze plated, and I'm guessing it had "galled" to the male.

Now going to try the other side!
C.R. Tyrell

Did the other side in 10 minutes. After all the fussing around. In case anyone is interested here is a picture of the holder/wrench I used.

C.R. Tyrell

Hi CR,

Well done - your perseverence paid off! Others you have to remove in the future will be a piece of cake -hopefully!

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

CR, I'm impressed!
Dave Braun

This thread was discussed between 11/11/2011 and 21/11/2011

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