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MG TD TF 1500 - Rear Panel Deck Board

Well, I'm still inching along. The present project is reconstructing the three rear deck panels (Moss part # 450-920) on my TD. A post not too long ago had the demensions of the three rear deck panels and mine seem to be very close to the demensions mentioned in that post. But I still have 3 questions.

First, each of my panels seem to the leading and trailing edges cut at about a 15 degree angle. Since I have no idea if mine are original, is this correct?
Second, the thickness of the wood on mine measures 1/2 inch. This seems a little thick compared to the floor boards that are slightly thinner. Is 1/2 inch the correct thickness?
Third, under one of my panels (I believe it might have been the middle panel), there seemed to be a thin metal strap looking piece (picture enclosed). Does this belong anywhere in there? And if so, where and what is it.

OK, that is 5 questions but the last two are optional.

After 5 years of learning and reading this bulletin board, I'm still a newbie.

Thank you for the help and for your patience with me.

Patrick

Patrick Earles

Second picture for above.

Patrick Earles

Hi Patrick,

My 1953 TD (untouched since 1972) has 3/8" floorboards and a 3 piece 1/2" thick rear deck as well. It also has the angle cuts both fore and aft that you mentioned. I have no idea what the metal piece is. I don't have it on my car.

Hope that helps,

Kirk
Kirk Trigg

Kirk,
Thank you for the quick response. I will be cutting out the panels this weekend and will use the 1/2 inch thick plywood that I just happen to have. I'll cut the angle into the leading and trailing edge of the panels also.

As for the metal strap, It didn't seem to fit in anywhere but I've never done this before so I wouldn't know any different if it did belong.

Thanks again,
Patrick
Patrick Earles

I just bought a sheet of 3/8 marine plywood and used it for all floor and deck panels. rear deck holds very little weight anyhow. leading edge at 15 is about right although my trailing edge was not on mine.
L Rutt

I assume you are talking about the area behind the seats. You can put a custom holder under the middle panel for keeping things. There are several plans out there for that purposse.
Tom Maine (TD8105)

Patrick,
I did not screw my center board into place. Instead I used Velcro tape to make it easier to remove to check rear end fluid level, brake connections, etc. Just a suggestion. Works great for me.

Front edge about 15 degrees as well to match the slant of the metal panel below it. Rear edge had no slant on mine. Also used 3/8" marine ply. Lining up the holes to drill was a challange! If doing again I would do a cardboard template of some sort with the holes set perfectly, then cut/drill the plywood to match.

Also, you didn't mention the 2 supporting wood strips that go under the 2 seams between boards. They screw to the underside of the 2 outside boards and the center board rests on top of them as I remember.
Ed
efh Haskell

Patrick
Ed is correct about the wooden strips on the right and left plywood panels. They are about 1/2 inch thick by about 1-1/2 inch wide, they are there to support the center panel which is removed to get to the filler plug in the rear end. There were four tee nuts installed from the bottom of these strips to hold down and to remove the center panel. I used stainless steel screws and tee nuts here and rubber roofing material all around the perimeter of the plywood panels where they attach to the metal body parts. You can buy this rubber roofing material at Home Depot it is used to seal around windows and doors. It is sticky on one side and not on the other, I also used it any where the factory used felt i.e. floor boards. Don't buy the one with the silver non sticky side, get it with the non sticky side black. Good luck John
John Hambleton

"Bitchathane"
efh Haskell

To drill the holes I have a friend hold the wood in place, then I drill up through the captive nuts with a 1/8" bit from below. Then I remove the wood and drill with 1/4".
David
D. Sander

Patrick,
I don't know how close you want to be with original but i used space down there for storage of spare parts. I made that board out of one piece and have two holes with standard stailless steel food bins attached under it.
If wanted, the whole board can be taken out but for me the accessibility to the diff from below is also doable.
The original idea for this came from this BBS (where else!) several years ago.

Huib Bruijstens

OK, Eddie Haskell
What's "Bitchathane"
With that name I know I'm asking for trouble, just for asking this question! John
John Hambleton

John, it's the nasty roofing stuff that sticks to anything. That's what the roofers call it out here anyway. Probably not what they call it at HD though.
efh Haskell

That little metal piece was on the center panel on the rear deck. I have no idea why. I tossed it.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

The rubber (HDPE) roofing membrane John described is likely made by Grace and called Vycor. I use Vycor Plus, which comes in a roll and is available in 4", 6", 9", 12", and 18" widths. Vycor Plus is carried by Lowes. Home Depot carries a similar product by another manufacturer. Any good building supply yard will carry these products.

Use the Vycor Plus product that does not have the aluminized backing. The product has release paper which is removed to expose a very sticky surface that strongly adheres to most materials. It is easy to cut with a good shears. [Mineral spirits (paint thinner) can be used to clean a gunked up shears.]

I use Vycor Plus to seal around windows and doors and to repair flashing problems. I highly recommend it.

http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/Window_and_Door_Flashings/download/TP-083N-Plus_2.pdf

Larry

Larry Shoer

The metal strip goes under my center panel with each end resting on top of the L/H and R/H panels. I'm not sure why, as it's very flimsy and can't support much.
Mike
Mike Hart (52 TD 16378)

This thread was discussed between 19/01/2012 and 21/01/2012

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