Welcome to the DMR Site for British Car Information.
|
|
MG TD TF 1500 - Rear Main Seal
| I just purchased a 1952 MGTD that has been fully restored. The only problem the seller identified was that the car has a rear engine seal oil leak. Is this a fix that can be complted without pulling the engine. Does any member have a step by step process they would recommend? The risk of a scratch or damage of trying to pull engine is too high and would just live with leak but if I can do it without I am interested in making the car 100% correct. |
| Russ Little |
| Hi Russ; Trust me, if the rear seal leaks your car is absolutely 100% correct. There have been many attempts and little success fixing the problem. The problem is seen affectionately by MG lovers as the car "marking it's territory". The best and easiest way to overcome the issue without removing the engine or transmission is to make/purchase a small catch container which attaches to the bottom transmission bolt and can be emptied periodically. Much in archives on the whole subject. Where in Florida are you? Enjoy the car in our year round driving weather and feel sorry for the ones that have put their cars away for the winter. Drive it often and as they say here "drive it as if you stole it". Sincerely Dick Safety Fast |
| Richard McCutcheon |
| Russ - there is a ton of info on this in the archives, and MANY posts about plusses and minuses of the Moss conversion kit. I have made up a mandrel that fits in place of the crank and bearings in the rear cap, and against which I can center the oil slinger, as original. Careful azssembly then makes the original rope seal work just fine, with the usual couple of drips without which no self-respecting T-series car would be seen in public. Neither process can be done without pulling the engine and trans. It all depends on how much is leaking, and if you can live with it. A puddle under the car is too much, a few drops is normal. Tom Lange Bar Harbor, Maine |
| t lange |
| Russ, I got this from a recent thread. http://mg-tabc.org/techn-up/drip_pan.htm |
| Mort 1950 TD1851 Möbius |
| Russ, above comments right on. I'm trying to have a drip pan fabricated, to prevent marking the occasional nice driveway I may visit. Consider this engine is a pre-WWII design. The mating surfaces are rough, thin (valve cover edges), and very primative. The rear "seal" is not a seal, but an Archemides Screw type thing- it "screws" oil back into the engine when turning. As soon as it stops, oil will leak out and form a puddle. Much bigger than 2" or so in diameter would be excessive and may oil the clutch. Anything smaller, just live with it. The rear cam core plug and rear oil galley plug can also leak. IF you stop the rear seal leak, the valve cover or side plate or something else will leak. Use a drip pan or cardboard under the car. You will never have rust! Lastly, at the nice Lake Mirror show and concours near hear, any participants not parked in the stree are all issued cardbord to put under their cars, since most cool cars leak! George |
| George Butz |
| What a creative solution -- thanks |
| Russ Little |
This thread was discussed between 28/12/2011 and 30/12/2011
MG TD TF 1500 index
This thread is from the archives. Join this live forum now