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MG TD TF 1500 - New water pump
| I want to replce the water pump in my '53TD. There is some little bit of seepage coming from the unit. It's the original pump into which I put new bearings. I reused the old seal due to the fact that a new seal couldn't be located. There has been discussions in the past about getting them rebuilt and buying new. If I go the purchase route, who is the best supplier or do they all(Moss & Abington) get them from the same place which is most likely India? I've heard of the guy that rebuilds them but I just want to swap it out on a weekend. I'm also not too sure that the shaft to pulley fit is good so I don't want to use the old shaft. Should I get a new pulley at the same time? I've seen where the best pulley appears to come from Abington. Thanks, Mark |
| Mark Strang |
| Mark, We have had a few people here have trouble with pump to pulley fit, loosening pulleys and shaft wear. We think it is because the information in the Moss pamphlet was not followed with regard to pulley installation and preparing the pump to fit. Read over the Moss pamphlet http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/434-010.pdf and follow the recomendations. Note that with sealed bearings, you do not pump any grease into the cavity of the pump. If you do you will push the seals on the bearings knocking the races cattywampus and causing bearing wear. Since the rubber seal type pumps, or the rubber seals, are not available, I think your option is to buy the Moss pump (I'm not familiar with the Abingdon pump). If I had a later style pump with a good original rubber seal, I would do as we both did and replace the bearings, because I know it would fit the car. I don't know of a carbon seal repair kit for an original carbon seal pump. The Moss pulley appears to be fine, it is the lower crankshaft pulley that is suspect. As usual if you buy something from Moss and don't like it, send it back. Hope this helps, dave |
| Dave Braun |
| Mark, look down the board under "water pump kits". Butch rebuilds them with a modern seal. George |
| George Butz |
| PS- the problem with pully/pump fit dates back to "orginal" manufacturer WX-76 marked pumps many years ago (my vast experience was with two of them). I recall having to grind on the body to fit over the timing cover, so that is not a new problem either. Dave, you are exactly right as far to the loosening problem. The pumps I fiddled with had the shaft boss standing above the pulley, so the nut was tight and the pulleys came loose. The fix was the spacer shim/washer under the pulley, as in the Moss direction sheet, etc. George |
| George Butz |
| I purchased a pump along with a pulley from Moss to have as a spare. I wrongly assumed that I could just install it at a later time, or if the need should arise, lend it to another T Type on the road some where. BUT, with all of the fitting that must be done, ie. grinding the body to fit the chain cover, grinding the pump body to fit into the bore in the block, possibly having to enlarge the bolt holes, then having to mess with shimming the pully, it definatly is not a road side swap as it used to be!! Even getting the pump AND pulley on the same order, one would hope that they would fit each other with out the need for shimming! SPW |
| STEVE WINCZE |
| Mark - You might want to direct your question to Butch Taras at mgyowner@yahoo.com He has taken over water pump repairs and modification previously done by Phil Marino. Cheers - Dave |
| David DuBois |
This thread was discussed on 27/09/2011
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