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MG TD TF 1500 - Its Here, Moss Crankshaft Seals Conversion Kits

Big box of goodies from the States on the front verandah yesterday arvo.

This morning the preliminaries to reassembling the bottom end of my Donk commenced with the priority to follow the Moss Rear Seal Conversion Installation Instructions religiously.

1. 0.025 had to be removed from the rear main bearing block to avoid fouling the seal retainer and create the recommended clearances.

2. Trial fitup of components established where the "Speedi Sleeve" would have to be located on the crankshaft flywheel boss. This is where Moss needs to impart some additional advice as in my case if I had left the sleeve installation flange on the sleeve, all would have been tears. The flange allowed for no clearance to the rear face of the seal retainer if the maximum running surface is to be utilised for the seal to run on.

3. Longitudinal positioning of the sleeve is critical to provide maximum seal running surface and to also allow the flywheel to engage on the crankshaft flywheel boss.

4. Crankshaft thrust clearances also affect this relationship.

For the unitiated it is imperative that clearances for all running faces be checked and rechecked prior to final assembly.

The new Vs rear seal appears like it will do the task its designed for, "proof will be in the pudding".

The crank front seal conversion I am not convinced has been researched sufficiently. The supplied seal thickness falls way short of the width of the retaining groove in the sump amd timing chain cover. Additional seal packing may have to be placed on the agenda when I install this irem.
G Evans

I just went through the same process. I've only fired the engine once for a short time but no leaks so far. Keeping my fingers crossed!

You can see a pictorial of my process at this link (scroll to the bottom of the first page, and see page 2)
http://www.vintagemotoring.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1544
Steve S

When I rebuilt the engine in the wifes 72, I used a Moss front seal and it has never leaked a drop since. PJ
P Jennings

Hmmm....Getting ready to do the same...I wasn't aware that the bearing block had to be machined....Nothing in the Moss catalogue indicates re-machining of engine parts. In fact, it specifically states that you can go back to the old-style seal.
Can you be more specific as to how you did this?
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Edward,

The machining of the rear main cap is not critical and is only needed to make way for the adhesive which bonds the main cap to the oil seal housing.

Use an angle grinder as it does not need to be smooth- the adhesive will bond better.

You must check the flywheel bolts as they do stretch and may foul the seal housing if they stick out too far.

During final assembly put a SMALL amount of sealant on the flywheel bolts and between the 2 halves of the seal housing where the bolts pass through.

You can revert to the original seal if required and removing metal from the bearing cap changes nothing.

Good luck,

David
David Tinker

G/day Edward

The Moss Installation Instructions are very explicit explaining this operation, It is imperative that the seal retainer does not contact the rear surface of the rear main bearing cap otherwise the retainer will not attach so it is square to the Crankshaft Boss.Pending on the vintage of your motor this operation may or may not be required.

I used a large angle grinder to remove what was required from this face ensuring I did not compromise the gasket groove.

If you want to obtain a set of the Moss Instructions prior to purchasing the kit they are freely available on the web.

Graeme
G Evans

My XPAG racing engine was done by R&L this summer and they NEVER use the Moss conversion. He says that if the slinger is set up properly it does the job just fine and I have to agree. Not a drop yet. Cheers, JL
James Lea

Guys
I'm well into the tear-apart of the car, and the seal kit sits in my new-parts box...I have so many other operations to do, that I haven't had a chance to really study the seal kit....
Will a test-fit tell me if I have clearance, without refacing the retainer, or should I assume I will have to pull the bearing cap, and face it? (I have no intention of pulling the engine apart, as it was overhauled within the last 4000 miles, two owners ago, and runs well).
My main object with the engine, is to stop the various oil leaks.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Edward, Unfortunately, you will have to remove the crankshaft in order to install seal kit anyway, and yes a trial fit will determine whether or not you will have to grind the face of the rear cap. It should be ground to give you a 10 thou. clearance between the cap face and the seal retainer once it is bolted in place. You can usually remove enough material by simply "filing" the face. I would recommend using a speedy sleeve on the crank flange to give you a good smooth surface for the lip's seal and you might have to let the speedy sleeve protrude slightly beyond the leading edge of the crank flange, to give enough surface for the seal to ride on. Also make sure you centralize the seal retainer with the crank's flange.
Cheers Phil
Phil Atrill

This thread was discussed between 29/11/2011 and 30/11/2011

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