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MG TD TF 1500 - Gear box mount

When I checked my rear gearbox mount, I found that the box had been driven back by the gearbox ears, such that the back was bowed out and one welded end broken. I've straightened out the box, and welded it. Today I tried to fit it and the new rubber blocks in. To make it more of a challenge, the floorboards are in, but the transmission tunnel is loose and this task rates right up there with working on the peddle box. After much effort I got the box and rubber blocks in place, but I couldn't get the mounting holes to line up. It seems the entire engine has shifted back about 3/8". This would explain why the back of the box was broken out. Any ideas on what's going on? The distance between the back of the engine (rear plate on the head) to the firewall is about 3/4". It's about even with the bolts sticking through the firewall that hold the firewall in place. See the picture attached.

Should the distance be 1"+? I've replaced the front engine mount already.

The good news is that as there was no nut, cupped washer or rubber on the fork, the transmission yoke wasn't broken out.

BVS Van Sloun

BVS,

That is a common problem. Two fixes, some weld an extra bar along the back to strengthen the box, others drill two holes on either side of the middle and install bolts to keep. the sides from bowing. If you have a "grabby" clutch these fixes will most likely fix the clutch problem also. I will e-mail you an article regarding the bolt method.


Regards,
Jim
James Neel TD28423

BVS,
I just checked the gap on mine and it is just over 1". You mention that you have replaced the front motor mount. Was it a new one or a used one? I have seen used ones that have been bent out of shape. I would also check that front motor mount bolts to the chassis are tight. The engine stabilizer would also be out of alignment. I hope you can get it back where it belongs.

George
George Raham [TD4224]

I just went through this with my '52....My advantage, was
that the body was off....
My rear mount was broken and bent, and the engine had moved to the rear....So much so, that the drive shaft had no movement.
After repairing the box , and rewelding the corner of it, the engine is now about 1/2" further forward, than it was....My good news is that all the holes lined up, on the frame.
The fan is now a little closer to the radiator, and I'm hoping that it will help with the cooling.
Place a level on the engine's side, to be sure that the engine and transmission are straight up and down.
If you can't get it on the block, then put it on the side of the transmission.

Edward

E.B. Wesson

Thanks for the help! I've welded a reinforcement across the front and rear of the mount box. I'll be sorting out how to shift the whole engine forward 3/8". Hopefully loosening the exhaust and the radiator hoses will let it move forward without too much lip pursing.

Thanks to this site, I've gone through the peddle box and now the rear mount, the clutch linkage is next in line. I'm wondering what else I need to examine...

I'll have some time to sort through it before it's warm enough to take to the road. It'll be the first time since ~ 1970 that's moved under it's own power. I can't wait!
BVS Van Sloun

Would any of you have photos/articles of the fixes
that you could email me at rod-murray@hotmail.com

Thanks
Rod Murray
Rod Murray 54TF 3006

Rod, I've attached a picture of the mount. Sorry it's blurry, but it's cold in the garage! I welded a 5/8 gusset across the back and a 3/8" gusset across the front. The gusset it placed lower than the ears that hold the tunnel, in line with the 'V' cut out in the center. I did weld it across the width and to the ears though. It's not going to fail there anymore. And as you can see, I finally got the rear mount in and wrapped up. I ended up having to loosen the exhaust mounts and the radiator hoses so that I could shift the motor the 3/8" forward that it needed to go.

I spent the rest of the day working on the clutch linkage, making the link adjustable by cutting the push rod and welding in a 3/8" NF threaded rod in one tube end and threading a welding a nut on the other tube.

BVS Van Sloun

This thread was discussed between 16/01/2012 and 23/01/2012

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