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MG TD TF 1500 - Front Wheel Bearings

What is the proper or practical method of removing the front wheel bearings on a TD?

Is there a special tool?
Mort TD 1851

WSM
efh Haskell

And a 3-arm drum puller with eyes that go under the lug nuts (not the hook kind).
t lange

Ed,
I checked the WSM but I guess I missed that page.


I borrowed a couple of bars with a hook at the end from my corner service station. It took a lot of work but I finally got it off. There is a big raised nick on the shaft where the bearing goes. That must be why it was so difficult. I will file it down and tackle the other side of the car tomorrow.


Thanks
Mort
Mort TD 1851

See Section K-12, Fig. K.7,and
http://www.ttalk.info/WheelPuller.jpg Bud
Bud Krueger (TD10855)

Mort,
Your question is unclear to me,, are you asking how to remove the bearing if it stays on the stub axle and does not come off with the drum?? I just ran into this problem on one side when I was doing the brakes,,,,

SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Steve,
Yes. The bearing remained on the stub axle. When I removed the hub/drum there was a space of about 3/16" between the back of the seal and the brake back plate. I fought with the first one and ruined the seal. My drum puller was too big to get behind the bearing so I used a small pry-bar to start it.

I broke down and bought another smaller 2 jaw x 4" puller today for the other side. It got the bearing started enough to get the larger 3 jaw behind it. It resisted me all the way. No way to tell what the PO had done to it. The bearings seem to be ok but a new set of seals is being ordered today.

The last paragraph of section K.12 of the WSM is interesting. It says that if you pull the hub you MUST pull the inner bearing and seal. Then place them in the hub before pressing the assembly on the stub axle or you won't get the correct position for the seal. I have pulled the hub many times to work on the brakes and never did this. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions on this procedure.

I am assuming it will resist when I go to put it back together. I don't have a press and I have just used a block of wood and a sledge hammer to get the hub back on in the past. a block of wood and a sledge hammer to get it back on. Anyone have a better way?
Mort TD 1851

Mort - If you don't remove the bearing and seal from the stub axle, when you offer up the drum/hub it will push the inside bearing back, and neither it nor the seal will be in place in the drum/hub. The seal will be hanging in space and offer no sealing, and the bearing will not be fully seated. Besides, you can't re-pack the bearing if it is still on the stub axle.

The bearings should be a tight fit on the stub axle, and I usually tap all around the drum with a rubber shot-filled mallet until the threads of the stub axle show, after which I use the washer and nut to pull everything nicely together. As long as the wood doesn't splinter and get debris in the bearing grease, that should work fine.

Tom
t lange

Mort,
This is the same thing that happened to my,,, I have attached a pic of how I used a combination of two pullers to get behind the bearing,,,, the jaws on the lag=rge puller as you said would not fit between the bearing and the backing plate, and the jaws on the smaller one would fit, but it wasn't long enough to push on the end of the stub axle... but combined, they worked just fine

STEVE WINCZE

Brilliant, Steve! Would you send me a copy of that image so that I can put it on Ttalk? Tnx, Bud
Bud Krueger (TD10855)

Steve,
Ditto to what Bud said. That is the sexiest puller I have seen!
The small one I bought today is 4" and it is long enough to fit back there.
Mort
Mort TD 1851

This thread was discussed between 16/06/2011 and 18/06/2011

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