British-Cars.org

Welcome to the DMR Site for British Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Drive shaft tunnel/gear box cover/foot board issue

First issue

I am test fitting the drive shaft tunnel and Gearbox cover on my MG-TD (51 or 52). The rear tie bar appeared to be deformed, I made some 3/16 plates to things together.

When I do I find the lip of the tie bar is partially blocking the rearmost mounting hole on the drive shaft tunnel. Is this proper?

See Picture

Second Issue.
I note that there is nothing really sealing the tub insides from the weather,

Dave Braun ran a bead of silicon alont the rails but I have yet to find andy sealing on the foot board to firewall, gearbox cover to foot board gearrbox cover to driveshaft tunnel or driveshaft tunnel to tie bar.

I am planning on using a product called "Duct Sealing Putty" Its used in automotive and electrical applications to seal things from the weather. It stays soft, will not harden and is waterproof.

Any other suggestions or am I off base

Jim B


JA Benjamin

Jim,
I'm sure you will get lots of opinions about the holes. As I remember when I did mine there were holes that either did not line up or just not used.

On my rails I used an adhesive backed weather and fire retardant foam. 3/16 x1-1/4 it came in a 50 foot roll from McMaster Carr. Their number 8694K127.

I've got about half the roll left over and you are welcome to it if you want to try it that way.
Mort
Mort 1950 TD1851 Möbius

Thanks Mort;

I have the duct putty on order. I will see how it works and if it does not I will get some tape from McMasterds
JA Benjamin

Hi Jim,
When I reinstalled the wood in the lower section of the body panels, I used a none harding, waterproof compound between the wood and metal panels. I laid a heavy layer against the inside metal and squeezed the wood into place. It took a lot of pressure, but it sealed any gaps between the wood and metal. This was something that had to be done when the temperature was warm, in order to get the compound to flow. Over fifty years later, I can still see the compound where it was squeezed out, and it still has some softness to it. It was a very worthwhile and satisfying task. The body is still solid. I think the duct putty you are planning to use would work well.

George
George Raham [TD4224]

That hole in the drive shaft cover is not used. As to sealing the floor boards, I am a strong believer in NOT using any sealer. If the car is going to be driven in wet conditions, chances are much more water would be entering the interior through the top (leaking side curtains, top or top down)rather than going UP through the bottom in to the car. I submit you want the floor boards to be able to leak, to discharge and drain the water that will, at some point, be inside the vehicle.
The factory used felt (bad idea) to prevent rattles and squeeks. The felt makes a great sponge, holding the moisture where you don't want it. I used rubber flashing and it worked well.
I'm all for keeping the top side well sealed, but not the bottom most parts of the car. It is not a boat.
-David
D. Sander

This thread was discussed on 16/12/2011

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archives. Join this live forum now