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MG TD TF 1500 - Dash Board and Glove box trim.
The chrome dash trim for my car was incomplete. It always was. I only have part of the outer underside. I do not have the glove box door trim. After searching on eBay for some time for bits and pieces I ordered a kit from a UK vendor mentioned on this site. I decided to put the outer glove box trim on first so I wont bang up the outside trim doing it. It appears that I can drill and counter sink the screw holes before forming the trim I intend to cut the trim a bit oversize, layout the holes, drill them, CS them and then form the trim. I have made a forming template out of a piece of hardwood. I will then fit the trim to the hole screw it, mark the correct length and trim it to size. It appears that I could pick up the old holes but I am not sure this is a good idea. Should I try or would it be better to plug the old holes with dowels and use new ones? FWIW I have found a source of FH #2 x 1/2 screws. They are, however Phillips heads and they are actually sheet metal screws, threaded the full length. I hink they will hold better than the wood screws. For the outer trim I plan on using #15 by 1/2 SS brads. (I will actually cut 1" brads to 1/2" A cut nail splinters less than a pointed one) I purchased a special "Brad Pliers" http://woodworker.com/framers-brad-pliers-mssu-101-238.asp?search=101238&searchmode=2 To set these so I don't strain the Plywood. The holes in the old trim seem to fit #17 brads but I don't find these in SS. If I pre-drill I don't think #15 will strain things. I would appreciate any and all insights the group may have. Jim B. |
| JA Benjamin |
| one thing you have to do is to cut v's in the trim to make it fit. it will not fit unless you do this as the curves make it impossible to fit in as supplied. |
| Tom Maine (TD8105) |
| This is the chrome trim around the edge. Do you mean the cloth cover, the cloth beading? The only vee's on the old trim I see are bevels at the edges where the outer-upper chrome meets the lower chrome. I would also love a source for a small amount of the cloth beading that goes between the dash and the scuttle. I am not ready to spring for an interior yet. Thinks Jim B. |
| JA Benjamin |
| I was thinking of the chrome around the dash itself. Senior moment. |
| Tom Maine (TD8105) |
| Now I am the one who is confused. See attached. Trim inside the opening. Thanks Jim B.
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| JA Benjamin |
| Jim, Your dash finish looks great. Can't wait to see it when you are finished. I would like to submit my entry for the worst glove box installation. Yes those are staples! If I win the contest I will dedicate the prize to the DPO. It's on my (long) list of things to re-do. Mort
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| Mort 1950 TD Möbius |
| Mort, do you have a lock for the glove box with all the important switches + garage remote inside ? I fitted a lock to mine to be able to leave stuff inside when leaving the car. I could not imagine having a toggle switch in mine though with all the stuff I usually have inside like leather hood, gloves, various glasses, papers, torch, remote and more (luckily the box is so big) Jim, love your dash as well. I believe re-using the old holes should be possible - there should not a be lot of strain on the screws once the trim is pre-formed properly so the´ll have to hold themselves more than anything else. Not sure why you want to use brads instead of screws on the outer trim, but I don´t know what was used originally. My glove box does not fully qualify as a sample though, it only has the outer trim, the lid itself is "naked". Rgds, Mike |
| Mike Fritsch |
| >Not sure why you want to use brads instead of screws >on the outer trim, but I don´t know what was used >originally. Mine origionally had brads. I do have 100 #2 screws however. Jim B. |
| JA Benjamin |
| Mike, No lock on the glove box door. If I ever leave my car in a vulnerable place I remove the battery kill switch and garage door opener. The toggle for the fuel pumps is in an awkward place. A few weeks ago I pulled out of a parking spot in the food market parking lot and the car stalled right in the aisle blocking all traffic. Could not get it to restart. Cranked ok but would not ignite. Took me a few moments to realize I had inadvertently put the switch in the center neutral position and was not getting any fuel. I guess I could use just a two position switch for the two pumps without a neutral or move this switch under the dash. That one was where the PO put it. |
| Mort 1950 TD Möbius |
| I could still ues some information oh how the standars flove box door latch works! Jim B. |
| JA Benjamin |
| JA you mentioned a source of dash trim in UK I presume it was more reasonable than that available locally, can't seem to locate the source you noted where is it ?? |
| Jon Levine |
| ...isn't the latch a 'bullet' latch? (if my memory serves....) Not sure of the size but here is a small one... http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=52888&cat=3,41399,41404&ap=1
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| gblawson(gordon- TD27667) |
| Just measured a spare door I have and it looks to be 3/8"..... |
| gblawson(gordon- TD27667) |
| I got the trim from NTG Motor Services Ltd. www.mgbits.com. It cost 71.31 pounds with 17.5 pounds shipping. $140.27 on my credit card. Now there is a rectangular latch (picture. I believe this goes on the door? he ball latch goes on the dash frame? I have no hole in my frame for such a latch. Thanks. Jim B.
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| JA Benjamin |
| The hole would be in the door itself.....the bullet latch fits down in and catches the striker plate on the frame.... |
| gblawson(gordon- TD27667) |
| Sorry to be so stiff here. If you look at the picture in my earlier post of the 18th at 22:11 you will see a rectangular hole in the trim at the top. How does that fit into the latching mechanism? Thanks Jim B |
| JA Benjamin |
This thread was discussed between 18/11/2011 and 20/11/2011
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