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MG TD TF 1500 - Clutch question...

Driving home last night, I shifted from 1st/2nd no problem...when I shifted into 3rd and let off the clutch, something felt really different and the pedal only came back up a couple of inches ... instead of what i will call 5 or so inches? I thought I would be coming home with no clutch, however, I can still shift and everything seems normal except the pedal position (and it may feel a bit softer ? when I release the pedal).... there is no strange noise, or more or less grinding ... all seems the same...
I know this happened in a 3 series of mine and it was a couple few springs in the pressure plate and required major work...
I wondered (its been a long time since i have been in the pedal box) isn't there a spring returning the pedal....think that might be the problem?
I can't get under the car for a day or two...just wondering your thoughts?
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

Gord,
""Driving home last night, I shifted from 1st/2nd no problem...when I shifted into 3rd and let off the clutch, something felt really different and the pedal only came back up a couple of inches""
.
.Did you get the same symptoms every time you shifted after this occured??? Do you have a cable or rod clutch mechanism?

SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Gordon, the spring in the pedal box is for the return of the brake pedal. The clutch return spring is at the forward end of the clutch connecting rod between the clutch lever and a bracket connected to the sump. This spring is notorious for breaking/unhooking/getting lost, etc. It usually just tends to make the pedal feel somewhat 'soft' rather than not fully returning. But, you may a lot of 'stiction' in your clutch pedal. Look under the front of your car at the front end of the sump. You should see a spring attached to the end of the clutch linkage. Is it there? Bud
Bud Krueger (TD10855)

Sounds like return spring broke or binding to me.
(Hope so ...that's an easy fix!)
David Sheward

Have to agree, check the spring that goes to the sump. Also, check the taper pin in the clutch bellcrank, as well as the keyway, and check the rods to assure they didn't take a nasty bend, . Finally, when you fix the linkage, adjust your clutch for about an inch of freeplay before you meet resistance. That will put the fingers and bellcrank correct relative to each other.

warmly,
dave

Dave Braun

Gordon,
Just in case your looking at Dave B's and scratching your head.
It has had a "piviot point" mod done to it!
Did this to mine also ... moving the connection reduces the force needed to operate the clutch.
(Highly recommeded if you have no left leg and operate your clutch by hand!)
David Sheward

In addition to the above things, check the weld at the end of the clutch shaft to the verticle arm (inside the dreaded pedal box) for breakage. George
George Butz

The weld at the end of the clutch shaft broke suddenly on the TF about 20 years ago. I carefully drove the car on the lift, took the pedal box side plate off and found the problem. The weld was a poor weld. I cleaned the metal up real well and welded it back together really well, so the two pieces would never be apart again. Satisfied with my repair, I put the pedal box back together and lowered the car back to the floor.
My emotional high of a job well done was short lived. When I got behind the wheel to start the car I noticed the clutch pedal, on the floor! D'oh ! Never dawned on me to place the arm and shaft in the correct position before welding. The second repair took muck longer. Last year when the car was apart I made the repair correct and permanent. It is a good idea to check this weld, and improve it if you have the chance when it is all apart.
-David
D. Sander

...thank you all... will look see the spring, hopefully that is it... I also did the 'mod' a few years ago and it was like a whole new shifting experience....
I always had about 7/8" play before engaging...
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

Hmmmmm....What clutch-pedal mod...Please explain...
Tried to find it in the archive, but no luck.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Edward, go here and look:
http://www.oconnorclassics.com/techtalk_clutch.php
the adjustable rod is usually not necessary. But relocating the hole in the fulcrum really works well.

There are additional details on my website in the restoration section http://www.dbraun99.com

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Well... the play is not in the linkage.... I have about 2" maybe 1 1/2" of travel before the clutch engages... looks like a new clutch/plate/bearing will be going in in the fall....
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

This thread was discussed between 02/08/2011 and 08/08/2011

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