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MG TD TF 1500 - clear coat application advice sought

Hello do-it-yourself paint guys,

I've got my TD all primed and read for poly color and clear coat. Using the U-tech system from Sikkens. Since I've never done it before I decided to do the rear spash guard all the way for "practice" after getting good results on scrap metal. Color (BRG) went on great. Smooth as baby's bottom. The clear is giving me fits however! I'm getting a "mat" finish instead of the expected high gloss finish. The paint supplier thinks I'm working too fast, not enought pressure, too much pressure, too close, too far away, etc. In other words, without watching me, they can't really tell. I tried to sand the clear off and start over to no avail so I've stripped it down to bare metal and will try the piece again.

Any tips anyone has on applying clear coat from someone who's got more experience sure would be appreciated before I waste more expensive product!

Thanks,
Ed
efh Haskell

What kind of gun are you spraying with Ed? HVLP or gravity siphon? What pressure are they recomending?
Whats the outdoor temp and whats the temp rating on the reducer?
LED DOWNEY

Devillibus HVLP gravity gun, 1.3 needle, 35-45 pounds at the gun's pressure gauge. They want 10psi at the gun tip but there is no way to really measure that. 70 degrees temp, activator is "medium", right on. (Not using a reducer with clear coat as it is "optional". They (Color Wheel guys) said that wasn't the problem anyway. I'll likely experiment with some before going how however.) They said practice really laying thick it on till is sort of "flows" to the eye as you're spraying. Does that sound right?

Hey, drove thru Palisades south to 141 yesterday to get peaches, corn, etc. on way home. That road was MADE for any of your 3 Brit. sports cars! Why aren't you out there now thearin' it up? I know, just for the tourists...

efh Haskell

I'd say to try some reducer in your clear. It sounds like you're going on a bit dry. You'll just have to be careful for runs / sags. But try reducing it say 4:1. 4 being clear, 1 being reducer.
l rutt

The secret to clear coat application is not to put it on too thin, the heavier the better. In a sense, it's something where experience is your best friend. Practice on a vertical piece of painted metal where you can "feel" how much to apply before it starts to run, then back off a tad to give you a safety zone. In my opinion, applying clear coat is an art in it's self, as there's no color depth to judge by. You can lay it on fairly fast as long as the volume is equivalent to the speed of your stroke. PJ
P S Jennings

Hi Ed

If you want to give me a call I will try to help you through the paint and color sanding process.

Gary
763-226-5789
gl krukoski

Hi Ed,

The best way to achieve that "flow to the eye" without creating runs: I always use a floodlight or strong lighting close to my work piece, that way I use the lights reflection on the clear coat to judge the thickness of the coat. Two lights from different angles is best.

Using your Splash apron, doors and other flat panels in a horizontal position is best since the paint runs less. Down side is: Unless you’ve got a spray booth dust accumulation is far worse.

I recommend AT LEAST 3 coats (15min between each) (beginners), but I recommend 5-7 (for experienced pray painter). More coats rewards you with that dept. to the colour, achieved by light reflecting from two different surfaces; the basecoat(say green) and the top of the clear coat. The bigger this gap, the bigger the WOW factor when your "baby" is basking in the sun on show day. The down side is more layers means greater risk for runs and picking up dust particles. Increase your time between coats the more coats you apply, this reduce the chance of paint starting to run.

Start of with your paint unthinned (or min. required as per spec), the idea is to apply thicker coats with less chances of runs. The last coat you should/could add a thinner to finish off with a very smooth top layer. (but be warned this is your biggest chance of paint running, so your work piece should be flat and horizontal) Tip: Leave the thicker coats to Horizontal panels (when fitted to car) eg. Wings, bonnet, cowl… These are the items that best reflect sunlight in such a way as to create that deep “WOW” look.

My first coat I apply very sparingly, so that I create a thin misty(matt) layer that quickly dries and BONDS to the base(green) layer.(I find that spraying on a thick layer for starters more easily creates “pinholes” or “oil scars”. (Don’t fear with the second coat the matt is gone)

When spraying the “middle” coats I use the light’s reflection and apply the paint only thick enough to create a smooth / “Flow” surface. Anything more and runs will form. (On surfaces 100% horizontal you can apply much more, but watch out for the edges.) ...Often I chicken out at coat 4 or 5; reasoning that “It looks good enough and the addition coats and the risk (runs & dust) isn’t worth it”.

The “Final” coat (max thinned) will be your biggest risk. (Not for the novice) but worth experimenting with.

I try and adjust the paint output on the gun so that 2-3 passes are required for one coat. But large panels should use less (2) passes, leave these panels for last and increase your paint output/volume a bit.

Good luck, and ALWAYS use a good respirator.


PJ Nel

...urm, Clarification:
" ..Horizontal panels (when fitted to car)" I mean; reserve the thicker coats to these panels. I'm NOT saying spray these panels fitted on the car. This is just to save some Pounds and reduce risk of runs.
PJ Nel

Sound advice.

LED DOWNEY

WOW! I asked for advice & I got it. All the way from S. Africa no less! Even phone numbers. I'm building my spray booth today and I think I now know what I need to practice. Hopefully it will turn out like your pictures. I'll be sure and post the results.

Thanks one and all!!
Ed
efh Haskell

Ed, did you try buffing the matt finish. I have been told the clear is bad to get orange peel and when you buff it the clear actually heats up and flows to a high gloss. Of course this is just hear say I had my car painted with the base clear but no actual experience myself. I am an old acrylic enamel guy.

Just my pennys worth

Rich
Richard Taylor

Rich,
The "experts" at Color Wheel, my supplier, didn't think buffing would do it. So I just stripped it and will start that piece over. No big deal. Luckily I got all this advice before I start on the other 20 or so body parts!
efh Haskell

This topic has brought forth a question I've had for a long time. Even though our MGB was clear coated and looks great, if these cars lasted, who knows, 25, 35+ years without a clear coat, why is it a necessity now? Example, my 93 Chevy pickup has a custom paint job which is now 17 years old and still looks nice, the custom deck lid on the back was never clear coated and today actually looks better than the clear coated paint. I can easily buff out a scratch in the deck lid, but on the clear coat, it's a much tougher job. The hood on the Chevy has a few stone pits in it which could be easily repaired if it wasn't clear coated, but to make it look right, because of the clear coat, the whole hood has to be redone. I'm not so sure I'm going to clear coat the TF. These cars rarely set outside any more and are less likely to be exposed to harmful chemicals. Their waxed and polished continuously and the paints today are extremely durable. A friend painter I know, who specializes in painting custom cars and hot rods, because of the high quality,(very expensive),paint he uses, only clear coats if the customer requests it. Just a thought. PJ
P S Jennings

PJ...lots of discussion on this question and most will go with just a one stage paint so it doesn't look too 'overdone'....
I did the Wols with just one stage, non metalic and even at that i looked too shiny...(not that i complained)....after a few dozen washes and normal life for 6 months it has lost that high gloss (unless I wax it which is fine)....

gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

Nice paint job Gordon, very nice!
P S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 05/08/2010 and 07/08/2010

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