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MG TD TF 1500 - Again, Moss Rear Oil Seal

In a previous thread, Phil Atrill made some good suggestions regarding the installation. One was to trial fit the assembled retainer with the crank in place to prove everthing is centralized. I have discovered that the seal retainer is .75 mm off centre, and there seems to be no method of adjustment. I ask if anyone has come across this condition before? While the seal has some flexability, is this too much to expect. I do have the Speedy Sleeve to instal as well. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

George Raham
George Raham [TD4224]

Hi George, To centalize the retainer to the crank flange you will have to counter bore the three countersunk holes in the upper halve of the retainer and then ream out the holes slightly so that you can use cap screws instead of the three countersunk screws that come with the kit. They should be 6mm x 16mm cap screws. (You can get them right off the shelf from CTC)and they are 12.5 grade. After enlarging the holes slightly you will now have some lateral movement available to you which will allow you to cenralize the retainer, within the limits of the two pins. You can do the machine work on a drill press using a 7/16", 2 fluted end mill. Moss used to offer this modification for free, but they have discontinued the service. Hope this helps. Cheers Phil
Phil Atrill

End Mill and Cap Screws

Phil Atrill

Upper retainer after counterboring

Phil Atrill

Thanks once again Phil,

I was hoping there were some magic words that could be used to centre the retainer, but I had an idea it would involve something like you described. Oh well, I may as well get at it, if I want that motor in the TD and running this season. Hope your having a good summer.

George Raham
George Raham [TD4224]

Your most welcome George. It's good that your being so discilplined and careful about the installation, as it's not the type of job you want to have to do twice. It seems about half of these installations are not entirely sucessful, probably due to non-adherence to the details. You can get the end mill from Busy Bee Machine Tools for a few dollars. To get the chuck centred with the hole in the retainer use a 1/4" drill bit in the chuck first, as a guide, then clamp the retainer to the table and replace the drill bit with the end mill. You only have to drill deep enough have the cap screw level with the surface of the retainer. Also make sure the cap screws do not interfere with block when tightened up, you might have to use the next size shorter. Have a good summer also. Cheers Phil
Phil Atrill

Hi George:
There is a Busy Bee here in Calgary over by my work...good excuse for lunch:)
Rod
Rod Murray 54TF 3006

Here are those pics. Really simple install but time consuming to grind down the rear cap. Of course I get a Bridgeport after I do the seal!

vping

Thanks for the pictures Vinc. I was surprised at how soft the bearing cap was. It only took about 15 to 20 minutes with a piece of emery paper on a piece of glass, to grid the cap down to get the clearance with the retainer. Your pictures show what it should look like. I hope Tyler, who started this thread, can get his done as well.

George Raham
George Raham [TD4224]

George, one thing that is very easy to forget is that the bolts that connect the flywheel to the crankshaft, are now in the oily area. In the original setting they were in the dry area so no need to seal them. But since the seal now is running on the larger diameter of the flange, those bolts certainly need a suitable seal otherwise the oil will sipp through which you will never be able to see if everything is assembled. Good luck, Huib
Huib Bruijstens

This thread was discussed between 11/07/2010 and 25/07/2010

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