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MG MGF Technical - balljoints

hi i need a new upper rear ball joint for my mgf but my local auto parts can only get the front ball joint my question is are the front the same as the back ?
pd dixon

I think they are the same...try this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SGF300194-FRONT-REAR-BALL-JOINT-KIT-MG-MGF_W0QQitemZ250493636982QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a52959176&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
R Appleton

I think they are the same also.
I also believe they are the same as those fitted to a Metro (front) 1984 to 1990 On earlier metros (pre 84) the taper was thinner so it needs to be the post 84 car.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Agree - same front and rear upper ball joints - and are same as Metro. See http://www.cbccarspares.co.uk for confirmation of this and they can supply QH brand c/w locking washer and tabs for around £7 plus P&P.

The parts cost is nothing compares with the awkward nature of the job. Without decent tools the joints will be hard to get out - see below. If you can get a garage to do it for a fixed price of less than £50 take them up on it! Buying the tools to do the job and four joints will be around £90. Not including the cost of a torque wrench. It's a least an hours work per corner if all goes without a hitch.

You'll need to chock the upper suspension arm. Splitting the joint from the arm is easy enough with a pickle fork (£8) providing you don't want to save the joint for re-use. The fork will bust the rubber cover. Tool 18G-1341 is recommended to remove and fit a joint to its hub. The tool gets around the problem of a thin hex profile and 105nm torque. The special tool is hard to find new and without it you'll need a deep socket to torque down with. I've used a 46mm 3/4" socket with 1/2" drive adaptor but found it necessary to grind off the face of the socket to remove the lead-in chamfer, else you only get 1mm of the joint's hex into the socket and then it WILL slip. Be aware that a 46mm socket is £40. 3/4 to 1/2 adaptors are £5. An open ended or adjustable spanner might work, but you can't torque down with this!

If the original joint has been treated with loctite, the job can be especially hard "at home". Unless you can get a gas torch near the job, you may end up taking the hub off the vehicle and visiting a garage who can mount it in a vice, give it some heat treatment and bash the joint free of the hub!

Taking the hub out involves disconnecting the steering arm, the lower ball joint, the brake caliper and if you have ABS, the sensor. The latter has a 7mm retaining bolt which I bet will be seized to the hub. It's easier to leave it in place and disconnect the ABS lead instead (white plastic connector on the dry side of the wheel arches).

Good Luck

Jeff
J Lennon

Just so that people are aware, the rear lower ball joints are the same as on the Rover 200 bubble steering rack. EPC would have you buy a complete tie rod at £184.95 plus VAT.
Ralph Gadsby

This thread was discussed between 08/09/2009 and 11/09/2009

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