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MG MGB Technical - R&R lever shocks

Couldn't find anything in the archives...I'm removing all my shocks this spring and having them rebuilt by Worldwide Imports. My question...is there anything I should know about removal? Is it straightforward or are there tricks i should know?
Bob Doc
Bob Dougherty

Rears are easier than fronts, but the tapered drop-link pins can still seize in the damper arms. If you can't get them out easily simply remove damper, drop-link and bottom plate as an assembly and crack the nut on the bench. Needs the body to be supported e.g. immediately in front of the front spring hangers, as well as the spring jacked up so the bottom plate can be pulled off the bottom of the U-bolts.

Fronts need a little more care as you have the compression in the front spring to take care of. With the front of the car safely supported by either chassis rails or front crossmember, jack under the spring-pan until the damper arms *just* come off the rebound rubber. You can then safely remove the upper-trunnion through-bolt, although that can seize in the steel sleeves of the rubber bushes. In that case slacken the nut and bolt holding the two damper arms together, wedge them apart, and hacksaw through the trunnion bolt each side between damper arms and trunnion, being ready to tie the hub up to stop it hanging on the brake hose. Then remove the four bolts securing damper to cross-member. If you have had to cut through the bolt you will need bushes as well as pin and nut, which usually come as a kit. For some years these kits were supplied with a Nyloc nut which is totally inadequate as the bolt is not long enough for the required three threads minimum to protrude from the plastic insert. You need the correct castellated nut, and it needs to be low-profile to boot.
PaulH Solihull

This thread was discussed between 24/03/2011 and 25/03/2011

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