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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Radiator Panels plus others

The CB shell is here, stripped to a rolling chassis and ready to go. The car is my oyster. But before I set about my pride and joy with a grinder I would appreciate your thoughts.

1. What is the opinion regarding radiator panels on a CB car? Is it better to unpick the existing mounting, side panels etc and replace with RB ones, or is it better to just cut out to the same dimensions as the RB?

2. Oil cooler - if you don't use the RB panels with a CB car do you punch holes through the CB rad panel base for the oil cooler pipes or dispense with the oil cooler altogether. I'm talking about an underslung cooler here, I think one in front of the rad might cause too many cooling issues.

3. Side radiator panels - has anyone dispensed with them completely and used horizontal bars each side of the rad to mount it ? How has it worked out for you?

4. Steering cone position - I have a video showing someone cutting out the engine bay side of the existing CB cone panel, then hammering the cone back for block clearance and then re-welding. Is it better to do this, or is it better to try to replace the whole thing with a RB panel? I have a CB V8 steering column with the two UJ's I can use, or a complete RB steering column. Am I correct in thinking you cannot use a RB column with a CB rack?

It seems I'm going to have to leave the cone loose/out completely to help position the chassis mounts. Sounds like it could be the last body related thing to fix in place - is that right?

Thanks all, I'm looking forward to your thoughts on all of this. I need to get it right.

Liam.
Liam

Liam,

Just a comment on (3); The panels around the radiator prevent the hot (exit) air recirculating and re-entering the front of the rad, when the veichle is stationary. Idealy the sides, top and bottom need sealing as well as possible.

Good luck, James
J E G Eastwood 1

On my 1974 1/2 GT, I removed the original radiator mounts by drilling & grinding the spot welds. I carefully removed the mounting panels from a late modelm parts car & re-installed in the '74 1/2, first, using sheet metal screws, & later by having them welded. Back then, I did not have a MIG welded, and new parts were not readily available. Today you can but the parts new from several sources. Drill a few holes & plug weld them in place.

I have no cooling issues using an oil cooler in front of the radiator & my 1973 has an iron block Buick 300. I do have a good radiator.

As previously noted, the side panels serve an important purpose. Yes, I have seen tubular supports in place of panels, & they looked good, but function is lost.

When building the '73, I had to alter the area in front of the firewall to provide clearance to match the rubber bumper cars. I cut the entire corner from a late car including the steering cone and pedal box base & welded it into the '73. This provided correct location for the steering cone and facilitaed the use of the later pedal box & boosted brakes.

I use a late model column complete with late rack. You must shorten the shaft on the rack & alter the mounting angle to retain the CB crossmember.
Jim Stuart

Jim,

So am I correct in thinking the steering cone needs to go exactly as the RB irrespective of whether I use the CB rack and column with the two UJ's or switch over to a complete RB xmember and steering set up?

My problem is that I have the option of doing either having both immediately to hand. I suppose I could weld the new chassis engine mounts in the RB location, remove the steering cone panel altogether then see how it all lines up with the 2xUJ column then go the RB front end route if I get stuck?
Liam

Liam-

Yes to the cone location, although if it is off 1/4" or so it should not cause a problem. Mine is about 1/4" higher & slightly (1/8")off center.

You might think about moving the mounts 1/2" back from the RB location. This will give you better clearance for the air cleaner & more room for an electric fan in front. Tack them in place & check engine fitment before final welding. I moved the 300 Buick about 5/8" back & used adapters from D & D which provide more set back then the traditional adapters. As my car is left hand drive & yours is right hand drive, some things may not translate.
Jim Stuart

This thread was discussed between 13/01/2006 and 15/01/2006

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