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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MG Y Type - Part between pedal assembly & Master cylinder

Please see this picture first: http://www.vaq.qc.ca/OLD/Pushrod.jpg
These are new replacement parts for a TD-YB.

I need to refresh those same parts in my YA.

It seems to me that the pushrod on the right (for a YB) would be a bit too short to fit to a YA. Am I right?

However, it seems that the threaded part that attaches to the pedal assembly (picture on the left) might be exactly the same as on a YA. Am I right?

Thank you.
Gilles Bachand

Quite probably Gilles

May I ask what is wrong with your current pushrod? It is rare for the push rod to go bad.

The picture on the right looks about right but there are no dimension on the photo and no way to gauge the size properly. Do you have the dimensions? If you have then I can compare them to one I have out on the bench currently from a YA/YT.

Paul
Paul Barrow

You are right Paul, the pushrod itself is just a little pitted. However, the threaded clevis is a bit bent. See picture : http://www.vaq.qc.ca/OLD/mastermg007.jpg

The threaded clevis for a YB-TF has the same number of threads, so it should fit. I'll order one and report back.

I wanted to tinker with the brake light switch, so I removed the floarboard and the door on the pedal box. When I touched the pushrod assembly, the two parts separated by themselves!!! I discovered that a previous owner had adjusted the brake pedal travel to the maximum the ajustable pushrod assembly would allow and left only 1 (ONE!) thread of the clevis screwed in the pushrod! See the picture: the length of the clevis which exceeds the locking nut is ALL that was originally holding the pushrod assembly together. And that unique thread had worked itself loose after all these years. So the ONLY thing that was REALLY holding the 2 parts in contact by now was the fact that the master cylinder spring (and return springs in the 4 wheels) pushed the master cylinder piston (and pushrod) out at the same speed that the brake pedal spring retracted the pedal (and the clevis) when I took my foot off.

Had the master cylinder piston been a little bit slower, a gap would have developed between the pushrod and the clevis, allowing the latter to pivot down. The next time I would have stepped on the brake pedal, I would have probably killed myself (I like to drive fast on winding country lanes).

Isn't that a fun anecdote?
Gilles Bachand

Good job you looked in there!

I will check in my pedal collection and see if I have the clevis pin bit.

If the TD piece isnt compatible what you could try doing (seeing as you have nothing to loose on this piece) would be to take the clevis pin off the pedal spline, clamp it firmly in a vice (with a piece of metal in between the forks so you dont crush them together), remove the lock nut for this exercise and wind the push rod back on almost up to the bend and then heat the threaded piece and with a piece of pipe over the push rodtry bending the whole lot back some.

Once approximately straight you can let it cool and then with a thread restorer (I have no idea what the thread pitch is from memory but if it is mad metric or whitworth get the correct pitch thread restorer) and clean the threads up. Refit the lock nut and push rod and then synch the lock nut back down to the push rod.

Let me know how you get on, but for sure dont go killing yourself on those windy country lanes you have up there in Quebec!

Paul
Paul Barrow

This thread was discussed between 22/01/2010 and 24/01/2010

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