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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Timing chain cover

I have a oil leak from the seal on the timing chain cover, does anybody know if you can get access for take of a replace without lifting out the engine.

Any help thankfully received

Stuart
Stuart Atkinson

Just disconnect the exhaust and undo engine mounts, remove rad and use a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan...

You probably will have drop the oil pan first and wood block wedge the crankshaft and use a long....(4-6) foot long cheater bar on the crankshaft bolt

Prop
Prop

Hi Stuart to let you know in English language.

First off you need to remove the front pulley. The easiest way is to buy a socket or a combination ring spanner to fit. (I use the combination ring as the ring offset fits nicely inside the pulley) if you place this on the centre bolt and wedge it against the chassis engaging the starter generally spins off the bolt. Alternatively you can buy a wedge that locks the flywheel when the starter motor is removed. Again mine is for a mini metro and I bolt it to the lock the flywheel using a single starter fixing without problems.
Once that is removed then slacken off the engine mounts to allow the front pulley enough space to come off forward. Tricky but possible.
Bob Turbo Midget England

Thanks for the help bob,

I wonder if he has figured out the reason for our advice is because the close proximity of the pulley to the cross member.

What i use to pull the pully is a small 2 jaw gear puller and a thin deep socket inside the pully hole... it works great.

The hardest part he is looking at is getting that crank shaft bolt free.. i feel for the poor guy at that point... what size is that head 1 - 5/8ths inch .... is that correct

I hope he remembers to bend back the washer tab that bent onto aa flat of the crank shaft pully belt.

Ah... im sure he will be fine... he will probably take lotw of photos as he goes... to use as a referance ....he IS a pretty smart fella after all.
Prop

Prop does irony!
Nicely done, Prop.
Guy

I tried to do mine without removing the engine and just couldn't do it.

I removed the rad, dropped the steering rack, disconnected the exhaust, undid the engine mounts and jacked up the engine.

Got the crankshaft bolt out, but there wasn't enough clearance between the crankshaft pulley and the crossmember to allow me to remove the pulley.

It was suggested at the time that if I undid the gearbox mountings I might be able to shuffle the engine far enough back to create enough clearance to remove the pulley... but then the sun came out and I decided to put everything back together and leave it for another day :)
TonyJH

I'm sure the last time I did mine I only removed the rad and the fan and didn't touch the engine mountings. The workshop manual also makes no mention of having to do anything else.

Trev
T Mason

I guess I should add that my engine is the 1275 with the damped crankshaft pulley... Trev, you're right, the manual doesn't mention engine mountings... the sequence I got was from the owners club tech support line.

If the crankshaft pulley wasn't damped I would have had enough clearance.
TonyJH

Tony,
I can imagine that being a problem as mine is a 1098 with standard pulley and that doesn't come off with much room to spare.

Trev
T Mason

Depends on the engine surely?
Did mine on the 1500 without having to move the block - you can probably get away without taking the rad out too, just the fan and belt, and the crank pulley.

DH2
DH2

ah but the 1500 has a much modified crossmember which dips in the middle.
David Smith

Thanks Prob and Bob job done as you described it,

Thanks

Stuart
Stuart Atkinson

This thread was discussed between 03/06/2011 and 15/06/2011

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