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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Seals

I know there have been numerous threads on this but I do enjoy a discussion.

Which seals do people prefer on the ends of the sump? Cork or nylony stuff?

Your thoughts would be appreciated
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

I used cork on this last rebuild after seeing how brittle the plastic type seal had become.

Trevor Jessie

either can be used to provide a leak-free sump; but you need to be expert or lucky to succeed, or use a good engine builder.
Bob I'm not sure exactly how, but I'm convinced the turbo is exacerbating the problem on your engine - I don't think all the hints and ideas from non-turbo owners are going to help much, you need the turbo converts to come up trumps...
David Smith

3 times now cork at front and black (plastic looking) at rear

front leaks rear doesn't - but none have been on long as I've had the car less than 4 years - don't ask why they've been changed, although the last time was an attempt to stop the leak as before I changed any of the sets there wasn't a leak
Nigel Atkins

Cork, plastic leaked. On a rebuild engine.
Alex G Matla

I prefer cork with a hint of blue hylomar, but they have to be precisely trimmed.

At the back of the engine, it isn't that easy to tell whether it is the sump seal or the scroll seal which is leaking.
Dave O'Neill 2

Peter May told me not to trim seals and to use bathroom sealant,worked for me.
Rob Newt

Perhaps I should clarify...

Some cork seals are pre-formed, whereas some are straight and have to be curved to fit the sump and also need cutting to length/angle.
Dave O'Neill 2

The cork seals generally shouldn't be trimmed, they should protrude quite a bit and be compressed into place as the sump is tightened up. I leave 1/4" or more at each end. I also use a dab of Loctite 518 in the corner where the sump gasket meets the seal. With this approach I always get a complete seal.

One point to watch however: The grooves at either end of the sump into which the seal fits are only spot welded on, and appear to have had some sort of sealant to ensure a leak-free join to the sump between the welds. I have found some where this is not the case and the cork seal is too narrow to splay out and fill the groove properly. Result is that oil sneaks through the join between groove & sump. Solved by throughly cleaning out the join and forcing 518 into it.
Paul Walbran

Dave, better not to use hylomar in this case. The "slugs" that are pressed out will not dissolve and could become an obstruction in the oil system. Better to use the brown stuff, can't remember what it is called.

I've used it on the sump also and the gauze from the pick up pipe was full of hylomar. And yes, I did use it sparingly and let it dry before fitting.
Alex G Matla

one more pointer about oil pan leaks: be sure to never set the engine down on its oil pan, keep it supported on a stand, or a hoist until it is installed into its home.

The weight of the engine can screw up the gaskets (BTDT).

Norm
Norm Kerr

Well a mixed bag isn't it?

The reason I ask is that I will be taking the engine out this next week to fit at least one more breather and I am wondering what has been expressed here
Are my seals leaking aswell?
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

I got the curved cork seals even though the straight one can with the sump set (didn't realise this first time)

So I got 6 staight cork seals anyone can have

I cut the curved to length first time so when it leaked I thought that was my mistake but I had to cut it next time too as there was no way the new bolts were going in even with two of trying to press the pan
Nigel Atkins

Where you putting the breather Bob?
Why take the engine out? Why not just drop the sump?
Rob Newt

Hi Rob I wanted to check the rear seal while I was at it so thought I would simply take it out.
I will be fitting one or 2 around the area of the oil filter.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Bob, is it worth fitting some sort of temporary pressure gauge to one of the breathers to see how much of a problem you have got? You could probably use a home made water or oil liquid column manometer to do the job.
Jeremy Cogman

Yes you are exactly right Jeremy

What I have in mind is to finish off the engine breathers and then plug a remote gauge into the dip stick hole and do a bit of testing.

I am hoping that the test results will be very interesting. especially he exhaust figures both with breathers open and blocked.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

This thread was discussed between 09/04/2011 and 12/04/2011

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