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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Gasket Set

Hi all, I enjoy reading these threads and have acquired a ton information... I appreciate it. My '66 1098 project is basically complete, car looks good and runs great. However, the rear oil leak is pretty extensive (more than an occassional drip)so I'm pulling the engine to take a peek. I really want it as tight as possible so I beleive I'll install a rear seal kit. On the initial rebuild, I used a Payen gasket set... is there a more highly recommended set that I should consider, particulalry for the oil pan. The cork that was provided in the Payen set seemed a bit bulky at each end where mating with the side gaskets; I would think a modern formed seal would be better. I also had a lot of trouble with the side lifter panels and the thick rubber seals provided. I ended up making gaskets from ruberized cork material and permatex and resolved the issue. Any recommendations and experience is appreciated as I really want the tightest possible scenario and hope to not have to pull the engine for a long time.

BTW, the windshield goes on the week.

Thank you, Trey

TS Smith

Trey

Are you sure you've got your engine breathing set up correctly - this can have a BIG effect on the amount of oil driven out of the engines rear
S G Macfarlane

S G, I beleive so, given the research I've done to make sure the PVC to side cover is the only point of vacuum to avoid an atmospheric neutral with the engine internal. No other sources of air entry that I can tell... oil fill cap, maybe. I thouroughly cleaned the orange-juice can and am pretty confident that everything else is tight. What I didn't do (because I wasn't aware of the issue) was concentrate on assuring the "eye brow" is seated as tightly as possible to the crank shaft at the rear...

If you have any suggestions on verifying best practices, I'd appreciate them. I did have the front of the car raised considerably for a couple of days... theres a possibility of gravity seeping of oil that collected in the bell housing. I will run the engine for awhile tonight; maybe I'm jumping the gun and will get lucky.
TS Smith

As an aside, I like the splitter on your car. Do you have any other pictures of it?
AndrewF

Trey,

That is really nice.... Good job, im a fan, those stripes really make the car.... You have really put some work into it.

I dont know anything about 1098s....sorry

Prop
Prop

Another vote for that splitter here. The car looks so good as it is,you could run it with aero screens.
Chris. I just looked at you vehicle profile. Nice arches . What are they?

Bernie.
b higginson

I just looked at my last post. Doh! It should have read, AndrewF. I loked at your vehicle profile. Nice arches. What are they?

Bernie.
b higginson

Andrew, Prop, B, thank you for comments. I fabricated the splitter from 16g or 18g steel welded to the front facia, and formed around the fender fronts with small bracing underneath each side. I have lots of pics, not sure how to make them viewable, but attached is another early pic following paint.

TS Smith

Thanks Bernie! I like them a lot. I wish I could take full credit, but they were installed by a panelbeater/fabricator mate of mine. They're from a late model car, I think it was actually a Hyundai from memory (not sure I should admit that!), we just went into a wreckers with a tape measure and found something to suit. The basic arch shape was cut from the donor guard, and then the flat bit was shaped from sheet steel to give a bit more width. They came up really nicely, pity the paint job isn't so nice, but I'll hopefully sort that out in the next month or so. My aim was something that looked like it could have been stock, and I think I achieved that - anybody who isn't familiar with these cars doesn't realise it's not original. The car started out as a SWA car, I wanted the extra room for a bit more rubber, now I just need to scrape together some cash for the wider wheels and tyres! Though to be honest the current 175s offer just about the right amount of grip to be fun with the current engine combo. I expect I will appreciate some extra grip when I fit the supercharger though.

Trey, that's cool, it came up really nicely! You say it is welded to the front facia, is it attached or braced to the guards at all? More pictures would be great, but it can be a slow process to upload them here I know.

I'm afraid I rather side-tracked your post! Sorry about that, have you had any luck with the engine?

AndrewF

Trey

Back to the oil leaks ...
The cork seals should protrude about 3/8" each side prior to clamping up the sump. If they are trimmed flush they will leak.

the other area which can give problems is where the corks meet the gasket. I use a small dab of Loctite 518 (master gasket) there to seal any potential gap.
Paul Walbran

Andrew, your car looks great... good idea on wheel arches.

Paul, fortunately, I don't/didn't have an oil pan leak problem. Upon disassembly, sealing looked good.

Pulled the engine. Scroll is still intact on the crank; I was concerened that it might have been machined away. Very minimal movement with the "eyebrow"; really no obvious issues that I can see to promote the excessive leaking. I can see where the oil was flowing down the inside of the backplate directly under the scroll seal. I've ordered a seal conversion kit and will be careful of the fitting of all parts. No other obvious leaks that I can see. I'll put it back together next weekend with the conversion kit and hope for the best.

I will upload a more pics when done.

Thanks..
TS Smith

This thread was discussed between 07/09/2011 and 12/09/2011

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