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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Boot locks - how do you get it out!

How the eck do you get the lock out of the boot handle?
Tarquin

Don't think its supposed to come apart, I've always changed the whole boot handle assembly.

Can be a pain with an additional key etc.

R.
richard boobier

it does look tricky.
I'm trying to modify the tumblers so I can have just the one key for everything.
Tarquin

come on people!
Tarquin

Sorry, I can't find one to look at. General rule is you need the key to unlock it, and leave the key in place. Then look for either a brass plunger you depress with a wire, or a small hole you stuck the wire in, to depress a locking pin (which is pretty much an additional tumbler). Some handles have a pin driven in to engage a groove in the cylinder tangentially, which can be driven out - but I don't think this is one of them.

FRM
FR Millmore

Could never find the way.
So I changed the boot and door locks and fiddled with the tumblers in the igintion barrel.
That one is easyto get out ;)
Onno Könemann

Tarq's I understand the boot lock barrel is staked into position on assembly

I haven't ever separated one from its handle successfully

I'd advise following Onno's advice, change tumblers on the other locks to suit the boot key

Myself I am happier with three keys to "secure" (nobody laugh out there!) the car

Bill 1

yeah but I have 2 boot locks, both without keys!
I can only find the numbers on one of the shanks, so I could get another pair of keys for that one if I knew where to go.

I'm using 2 boot lids, one of them has the boot rack bolted to it, hence why I want both locks lockable.

I'll have a closer look as per FRM's suggestion.

If all else fails, then could I simply file a key flat which would then not move any of the tumblers? Would that open the lock? Sounds a bit easy!
Tarquin

Still can't find my captive example.
Maybe post some pics I can look at?
The lock must be unlocked to remove the barrel.
Has the honorable profession of picklock gone away?
There are lots of sources for keys by number, seen them posted many times. Dealers had books with codes and a cutter, must still be some about.
A good trick is to try lots of keys; you just need to match the series. There are not many differences, and wear makes them even sloppier and more universal. I used to frequently get locks to work with random keys I had around. FS912 was especially good. Even keys that are not quite right frequently work if you fiddle a bit; once you get it out you can match the tumblers up correctly.
Be nice and restamp the codes if you do this!

FRM
FR Millmore

luckily the locks are unlocked.
Will try tomorrow, will also see if I can find any spare keys somewhere.
Tarquin

Most locks you still need the key, as the lock is "locked" in the "unlocked" position, otherwise you could turn it to "lock" with a screwdriver. The tumblers have to extend to the locked position to get the key out, but they go into a blind groove in "unlock".
I seem to recall that these have a metal cup over the shaft, retained by little squidges of metal that you have to file off to remove the cup. The retaining pin is under that cup.

FRM
FR Millmore

This thread was discussed between 07/08/2011 and 08/08/2011

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