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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 73 with 1275 - what tool can I use to turn engine

I want to adjust my valves but I can't find a tool that can fit on to the nut on the front of the harmonic balancer. There is not enough room between the balancer and a front cross member.

When I adjusted my point gap I had to do it by blipping the started a bunch of times because of the same problem.

What socket size is that balancer nut. I was thinking that I could fabricate a tool (cut a socket in half and then weld it to a slim handle).

thanks,
Rebecca
R Harvey

Rebecca

The balancer nut is 1-5/16"

However, when the engine is in the car and you have the room, the simplest way is to put the car into gear (3rd usually best) and push the car till the engine turns to where you need it.

Removing the spark plugs can make the job of turning the engine over much easier, often easy enough to do the job by turning the fan.

Paul Walbran

I did take the plugs out and tried turning the fan that did not work (the belt just slipped - it is tight enough I think but certainly not close to being too loose).

thanks for the info. I might try and make a tool but in the short term I might be able to move the car (not a very convenient solution).

Thanks,
Rebecca
R Harvey

Rebecca,

I've used Paul's method many times over the years with great success. These cars are light enough that it doesn't take much to move. I just grab one of the front wheels and roll it.

Another way to turn it with "the fan" would be to squeeze the fan belt in the area were the long parts of it are exposed (hard to describe) as you turn the fan.

I've done it both ways and I find that rolling it in gear is the easiest. And you can turn the engine in either direction so if you over shoot, you can always "back up".
Martin Washington

You can turn it with the fan if you simultaneously apply pressure with one paw to the belt on the slack side, ie, the vertical down run on the LH side of the car. Or, you can turn it with the alternator pulley by hand or wrench also with pressure on the belt. If you use the fan be careful to apply pressure at the base of the blades with both hands, to avoid breaking the fan; in this position your right hand can tension the belt as you turn it.

With the plugs in, if you hit the starter there are four positions where the engine will stop. In each position, two valves will be nearly fully open, and the mirror image valves will be on the back side of the cam in a suitable position to adjust. Like 1/3 open, adjust 6/8. A bit of practice on the starter hit and you can adjust all the valves with four hits, in about 5 minutes total.

FRM
Fletcher R Millmore

I usually push the car back and forth in 4th gear to adjust the valves. you can also lift one rear wheel off the ground and turn the wheel (with the transmission in gear). Only lift one wheel, the other has to be held still (by the friction to the ground) of the diff will just transfer the movement across to the second wheel. with one wheel effectively locked, the diff transfered the rotation to the propshaft, which turns the transmission, which turns the clutch, which turns the engine. if you are worried about wear on the clutch, pull the spark plugs so there will be less compression/resistance.

Chris Edwards

Yep the size is 1 and 5/16th AF. I have a socket although in reality I also own a Combination spanner to do the job. Don't know what the slang is for that but it is a spanner with an open end one end and an offset ring the other, it is ideal.

Alternatively as described above remove the plugs and turn the engine with the fan. The belt will probably slip so press the bely a little to tention it up Can't speak for America FRM but we generally have dynamos fitted to the 1275 Spridgets and not alternators.

The third method is to put the car in gear and rock it back and forth to get the engine turned to the correct position.

FRM is better than me as I have found hitting the starter achieves nothing but using other methods I can do the valves in about 5 minutes and 32.5 seconds. LOL.
Bob Turbo Midget England

Bob
I think most have been converted to alternators.

But on topic just pushing the car around is the easyest way.
Onno Könemann

Hey reb.

The easist way is 4th or (5th if you got it) and Ither push or pull the car, OR jack up the rear on one side turn the wheel as mentioned above

Inside my shop Ive always PULLED the car by the front bumper to watch the valve train move. Its easy that way esp. with all the plugs removed.

Prop...Parking brake, anyone forget?
Prop

One tip I got from Mark T along time back was to adjust 2 valves at a time in the rule of 9 sequnce,

I also write out the rule of nine sequence in 2 vertical columns.

1st column is the order of the valves Im watching as they bottom out fully open.

2nd column is the corrosponding valve I need to adjust.

Then I adjust and check off 2 valves at a time and pull the car 4 times.

then I go back and recheck in the same manner just to be sure.

Prop
Prop

I have one of those remote ignition switches - sort of a pistol grip device where the "trigger" engages the starter. They're inexpensive, and can really make valve setting easier.

I connected it as seen in the attached photo. I think our solenoids should be pretty similar.

Cheers,

-:G:-

Gryf Ketcherside

I have one of those remote ignition switches - sort of a pistol grip device where the button engages the starter. They're inexpensive, and can really make valve setting easier.

I connected it as seen in the attached photo. I think our solenoids should be pretty similar.

Cheers,

-:G:-

Gryf Ketcherside

I have no idea why my post was repeated above. Sheesh...

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Gryf,

It was such great advice it needed to be posted twice.

Prop
Prop

This thread was discussed between 25/07/2010 and 26/07/2010

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