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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1500 Rev Counter

On start up my rev counter is dead until you give it a flick then is normal however it does float around a little so not sure its right. What is the best way to diagnose the fault on this?
C Carter

Mine needs a tap to get it going at first, if I don't then went it start it bounces around

some electronic ignitions effect rev counters but not like that I think

I've had two different forms of electronic now on (full with 123 dissy) but at one time, can't remember when, I didn't need to tap the counter to get it going by that passed and hasn't returned since

you could check wires and connections are clean and secure, gauge clamp is secure and earthing, connection and wire to (minus) on coil and I (only) guess more likely wire and conection on the voltage stabiliser especially if you think the temp or fuel gauges are iffy

sorry not a diagnosis as check stuff but it does no harm to check as if the the connections, wires or voltage stabiliser are not at their best now they will probably cause problems later - crud on connections or spade connectors going loose can give intermitent problems that can be difficult to track down
N Atkins

All my other gauges seem to be fine, fuel gauge and temperature gauge seem to be rising and falling as the should. I will take out the rev counter and check the connections at both ends and go from there I guess. Is there a trick to taking out the rev counter or does it just pull out?
C Carter

My 1500 rev counter is the same, has been for years, 2-3 seconds before it comes to life, strange....
Steve H K-ser

the having to tap it at the start seems quite common but after this the floating around is not usual that I know of in my limited knowledge

if the floating is just after the tap then forget about it

rev counters are quite accurate but can be 1-200 rpm out at various points over the whole range, mine is, but that doesn't matter other than at tick over or fast idle if you're trying to get it exactly as book so don't worry if it's 1,200 and should be 1,000 if it sounds like it's revving right at this level then it probably is

I assume the 1500 is same as 1275 in respect of removing the gauges

care not to disturb other wires and connections as space is limited especially by hand size

a three sided clamp bracket compresses the gauge into the dash, the clamp is held by a small round knurled threaded nut and possibly small washer care not to loose either

the back ot the gauge has a threaded bar coming from it going backwards which is what the small round knurled threaded nut screws on to

once the clamp is removed the gauge can be pulled forward with care you should be able to see the wire connections and bulb which can be very tight in its holder

support the gauge until connections are removed so as not to strain or pull on possible knitted wires behind the dash

the gauge should also have a large rubber 'o' ring acting as a gasket between gauge rim and dash

check connections to and from gauge, on the voltage regulator and coil, wingle tests may be required to test wires
N Atkins

This thread was discussed on 28/06/2011

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