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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1275 Sump Gasket ?'s

Not to hijack D Stratton's thread further, I have a couple of 1275 specific questions.

The new rear seal is neoprene. It is sitting in the groove about 1/16" proud on both ends. I assume that this end is ready to go.

The front gasket is cork. It's in the groove dry, and is a good 3/16 proud. I 'll use a little Blue Hylomar, but how much should I trim off the cork.

I also have my old front seal, neoprene. It is pliable and fits the new pan well.

For the pan gasket, a thin coat of hylomar, both sides?

The engine is out, hanging on a chain, so I'll be able to clearly see any gaps.

Thanks, Phil

Phil Burke

threads on here with info in Archives

having done my 1275 pan three times (don't ask) I can say

before the first time I had no leaks

put in cork at front, plastic (neoprene? I thoought that was more rubber like) at rear - didn't cut cork, leaks

next time someone else fitted, leaks

last time didn't cut cork, leaks

some sort of selant was used each time, last time blue what's-it

next time, if there's a next time, as the leak appears to be fron the from I thought I'd try plastic (neoprene?) both front and back with a little blue what's-it

I checked the pan lip was flat both times I did it and used new bolts and oval washers each time

worst of course - it didn't leak until I took it off
Nigel Atkins

I prefer the cork. Leave it proud of the sump 5mm both side to compress. Cut the gasket very accurately where it joins the cork, use a little sealant here. For the gasket a light coating with grease should do if you take care that the edges are straight and flattened.

If you must use hylomar, use it according the instructions: very lightly smear both contact sides, let it dry and then fit together.
Hylomar will not dissolve in oil, it will form sticky slugs which you do not want in your oil system!
Alex G Matla

Ahhh phil,

That sucks... i hate to hear that.... esp with all the work you just put into it with the 5 speed conversion

Buddy, i hope it works out well for.you and goes back in smoother then before

Hang in there... you have my sympathys

Prop

Prop

hi Phil mate

Since asking a similar question only a moth ago I have had my sump off on 3 occassions.

On all these occassions I have resealed it in exactly the same way each time and had no leaks from any part of the sump, thank goodness.

I bought payen sump gasket sets which came with a choice of 2 neoprene seals or 2 cork seals.

On all occassions I used the neoprene seals on both ends. I used Blue Hylomar on the 2 sump gaskets and on the top and bottom of both seals front and rear. Probably over done but sealed anyway.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Well I've got it back together and should have the lump back in tonight or tommorow.

Moss gasket and seals, cork in front, rubber at rear.
Blue hylomar on top and bottom of gasket and over cork. A bit of hylomar under rubber sealm.

Fingers crossed, it'll be as dry as before.

I pulled the motor to change to a BillM re-conned tranny. Mine was a little louder in 5th than 3rd or 4th!!
Anyway, I got them out, and lowered them onto my cart, unhookeed the chain and was just about to roll the cart away from the car when over it went!
The tranny tail left a nice dent in my right fender and the oil pan took all the force.
Hayes Harris, at wirewheel.com is close by and supplied me with a new pan.

Phil
Phil Burke

I once struck a leak that was due to oil seeping through the join where the groove housing is welded to the sump. The seal located well and firmly in the bottom of the groove, but was not wide enough to fill it completely fore/aft so oil could access the aforementioned join. Solved by cleaning the join thoroughly and treating with loctite in the offending small gap.
Paul Walbran

This thread was discussed between 10/05/2011 and 11/05/2011

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