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MG Midget and Sprite General - Whats seperates the ball joint?

I will be changing the steering gaiters in the next couple of weeks before the MOT. My question is, what is the better ball joint separator? I have had the fork type for years but only used it twice. A friend has suggested that the scissor type are better as it doesn't damage the track rod end. What does everyone else think?
P Ottewell

Scissor type no question
Onno K

Forks are only good if TREnd is loose, and or you don't want to reuse the TRE. I've even had TRE come out of the socket, and leave the thread in the steering arm when using a fork.

I prefer this G type, to the scissor type.

Halfords do a version, but I don't know how good it is compared to mine, that I have had for probably 30 years.

It's a bit bent in the fork, but it's done a lot of seperating, including on my BMWs.

http://tinyurl.com/7uawz2h

Lawrence Slater

Here's the maker and size.

Lawrence Slater

That one is exactly the same as mine Lawrence and I've also had it for about 30 years. I would fully endorse your comments on the fork type only being used if you're changing the TRE or other ball joint or as a last resort for a really stubborn joint. I usually squirt a little oil on the part that contacts the gaiter so it slides in better.

Bernie.
b higginson

Trry googling the 2 hammer techenic

I did it last time and worked great... I Cant remember how exactly..you put one hammer at the bottom and strik the top with a 2nd hammer and the tre pops right out with no damage....i just dont remember all the details

Prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

You don't actually have to split the TRE ball joints to replace the gaiters. In fact doing so doesn't get you any further forward with the job! Release the TRE locknut and then unscrew the track rod from TRE in situ. On some (all?) there are small spanner flats on the track rod which helps. If not a small mole wrench will make it easier to turn. Replace the bellows and then screw it back in again.

In order not to lose the wheel tracking put alignment marks on the TRE locknut and on the track rod. Back the locknut off half a turn and then count the number of turns it takes to unscrew the track rod. It will be quite a lot as it needs a good length of thread to be engaged for safety. You will also need to remove the locknut in order to slip the gaiter on so count the turns to remove the locknut as well. Then you can reassemble all to the same settings. You may then wish to get the toe in re-set although if you haven't lost count it should be the same as before.
Guy

Here is what i was refering to using 2 hammers

I placed the hammer on one side and held it in place and hit the other side with a hammer aka the sides not the top or bottom...

http://www.nichols.nu/tip701.htm

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I've used that method too Prop, but if you don't "hit" with equal force on both sides of the steering arm socket, then you are applying force either through the steering rack or into the stub axle. I have used it and agree it works sometimes, in as much as it gets the tre to fall out. But when it doesn't work you are banging away and probably doing damage. Much easier and certain with a decent tool I reckon. :)

I wondered if anyone else would have the same as mine. I never seen it on sale anywhere else. I wonder if the company is still in business?
Lawrence Slater

Lawerance

Actually i think it does damage regardless, cause the hammer actually distorts the metal so the tre dislodges but it seemed to work for me... But like you... I fear where the hammer vibration goes esp if it dosnt release the 1st time

The next time im at HF i want to get on that looks like a large pair of tweesers with a screw that turns it down

That one looks good to me and not suppose to tearup the boots
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

This thread was discussed on 21/01/2012

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