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MG Midget and Sprite General - Tubular wish bones ... and coil shocks
| Hey guys....Guess what? Yepp, the ol brain noodle is in overdrive agian. Haha Ive been kicking the idea around of having some Tubular A-arm wishbones made....it dosnt look like it would be all that tough to make and putting in a coil over shock where the coil spring is....i was thinking about buying the primium barry king wish bones but for the price i dont think it would be that much more to have tubulars made. Im thinking having them made in 4130 So my quetion is.... has anyone else done this, or is there a commericial version avialable....or anyone got any tips or suggestion.....NO... im not making Them myself...subing that out to a pro. i might paint them, but thats about it But im thinking of using the adjustable shocks that came with the frontline kit. What conserns me ...is i dont think ive ever seen tubular A-arms wishbones on a street racer midget.... any ideas as to why that is?...tubulars not on a midget the only ones i have seen are on the mite midget and a couple other high end race car midgets Thanks for any opinions and ideas Prop |
| Prop |
| O god this is one of the bigest brainfarts you've had in a while |
| Onno Könemann |
| Jeez Prop - go to bed, get some sleep - and stop breathing in those paint fumes!!!!! You CAN'T have 10 gauge consoles in a race car you know ;) |
| rachmacb |
| http://www.spritespot.com/gallery/toomanyspridgets/q3 Single shear? Wozzat? |
| rob thomas |
| single shear is when you bolt two things together and double shear is where you bolt things together in a sandwich... er... I give up, I'm not going to be able to explain it without a diagram! ha ha. Basically all the bolts in that pic you linked are in double shear which is good! :-) If you are going to make the out of 4130 you must get them heat treated. The strength of Cromoly steel suffers badly in the weld region but nobody remebers/knows this or they can't be bothered getting the heat treatment done and so their parts fail. I would suggest just using cold drawn seemless steel tube. Cheaper, no heat treatment required and just as stiff. The only difference is that 4130 can take a bigger hit (crash) without suffering permenant deformation. In a crash you might want the suspension to give way first, saves expensive chassis repairs! cheers, Malcolm |
| M Le Chevalier |
| Prop, I can tell you that you don't have room for a coil over shock without removing part of the spring socket on the chassis for clearance. You then need a completely new upper A arm as well to replace the original lever shock. Then you'd want to change from the original style trunions to some ball joints for road use. All in all a heck of a lot of work and design. What you'd wind up with would probably look a lot like the Huffaker front suspension using ball joints instead of rod ends. Why try to reinvent the wheel for a road car when there are perfectly good proven upgrades to the suspension that don't involve major surgery. If you want some spring adjustment then have some adjustable spring perches made up, if you want the adjustability of a coil over shock then just get Peter Caldwell to build you a set of his fully adjustable lever actions. Ask David Lieb how well those work, he has them all around on his Sprite. Huffaker front suspension for racing in the photo. Note how the chassis is modified for shock clearance.
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| B Young |
| Prop Good to see I’m not the only one who can’t sleep due to ideas floating around my brain. Anyway, I’m going down the tubular wishbone route, or rather I’ve been forced down it, as I’m fitting a K Series Turbo engine in my 63 Sprite and the turbo would otherwise get in the way of the standard lever shocks etc. As with most things I seem to do I wasn’t happy with my first attempt (see photo). I’m now going for something more in tune with the Huffaker front suspension design, albeit not quite so complicated. As soon as I find a good fabricator for the upper wishbones I’ll post some pics. Cheers - Karl
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| K W Seddon |
| M Le Chevalier. My bottom links were in single shear for clearance purposes and due to the lack of suitably cheap alternatives. (Tightarse!) Had I kept the car I might have made them more like the ones Karl has. |
| rob thomas |
| Hi rob, sorry, wasn't really sure if you were looking for an explanation or what?! I think something may have been lost in translation there! oh well! :-) Speaking from a pedantic engineering point of view (my job is design verification after all!) the use of REIB (rod ends in bending) always makes me cringe! Although I am sure they are perfectly adequate and safe they are not 'correct' in a strictly engineeringy sense. I will allow a smarter man than me to explain if you can be bothered reading! http://www.formulastudent.de/academy/pats-corner/advice-details/article/pats-column-rod-ends-in-bending/ This has got me thinking about race cars again, very detrimental to my productivity at work... damn! Cheers, Malcolm |
| M Le Chevalier |
| OooooooooooooooH REIB, VERY VERY BAD idea for suspension components carrying loads! Don't even get me STARTED on suspension fasteners in Single Shear. SHUDDER! |
| Deborah Evans |
| One of the things to be careful with a design like that on Karl's car shown above is that even with high angularity spherical bearings there may not be enough travel available to suit a road car. |
| David Billington |
| Surely every suspension ball-joint assembly is fastened in single-shear? (e.g. bottom balljoint on our Focus) Some of them aren't carrying full suspension load (like Midget top trunion and TRE balljoint)... but they will see transients. A |
| Anthony Cutler |
| Prop, if you are having trouble fitting coil overs inside tubular wishbones could you not use bell cranks to mount ajustables inboard? In this way you could adjust bump, rebound, pre-load under the bonnet. Using a monoshock setup would reduce parts cost and adjustment times but could be hard to route, set up etc. |
| BH Harvey |
| Guys thank you.... M le.... thats the kind of insight i did not know about 4130 .... id definatly do every thing in ball joints instead of rose joints Ill have to see if i can sketch out my idea and post it... Bill confirmed one suspission i had was space . Basically im thinking of a marriage between front line kit and the lucas orginal lower design only with tubular wish bone... so no modifications to the king pin....then put the FL adjustable shock inside the coil Agian this is just a basic 3 am counting the cieling popcorn texture idea ive been playing with the last 4 early mornings So why tubes instead of Barry king...if your gonna spend $400 to $500 for wishbones might as well go the creative direction |
| Prop |
| Hey BH.... hmmmm, i like what your thinking...sorta like a nascrap set up....thats worth kicking around. Definatly has cool factor status... Sorta like rach was saying ...no need for 10 gauges, but it sure looks cool A fully adjustable suspension from under the bonnent...ill never need it seriously doulbt id ever adjust it once it was set up , but it would have that "OMG" look to it. Lol. Prop |
| Prop |
| damn, BH beat me to it, was thinking about the bellcrank and tubular shock idea on the way home. Coil overs could be placed where the normal dampers are positioned. Although I dunno if there would be space... cheers, Malcolm |
| M Le Chevalier |
| Prop. This might be of interest to you? http://www.nichevehiclenetwork.co.uk/projects/ultra-lightweight-tubular-structures Jonathan |
| Jonathan 1972 1275 RWA |
| Hey bh or malcome Can You please post some generic photos of the bell cranks... just so im on the page as to what your thinking...ive never heard the term bell crank, but i think i know what your referancing....just not certian Thanks |
| Prop |
| Thanks johntan Vary cool stuff.. |
| Prop |
Prop, all a bell crank is is a device to transfer motion from one axis to another around a fixed rotation axis. In the case of front shocks they are usually actuated by a push rod mounted on the lower control arm and actuating the bell crank to transfer the upwards motion into a downwards motion on the inboard mounted shock. These days most racing cars and Formula 1 cars use a similar arrangement but with the shocks mounted almost horizontally instead of vertically, but in the case of a Spridget I'd think vertical shock mounting would be the simplest and take advantage of the available space.
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| B Young |
| Prop, A picture of a bell crank on my old racer attached. Coupled with B Youngs explaination and exquisit technical drawing I think you get the picture, the bell crank is just a triangular thingy that sends the forces round a corner! The pivot for this crank is show in blue and you can see the push rod from the wheel and the spring/shock. It is a good system as you can mount the spring/shock anywhere (within reason) and you can alter the rate at which the pushrod (or pull rod) works the spring/shock by altering the geometry of the triangle (i.e. alther the 'leverage' of the bell crank) Hope this helps. Malcolm
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| M Le Chevalier |
| Thanks bill Nope ... thats not what i was thinking.... but i love the concept....certianly something to kick around... but im more basic and simple...haha, yeah i cant belive i just said that also....hahaha Bell cranks are definatly interesting Prop |
| Prop |
| It seems like a bell crank could cure bump steer on the current topic in the tech side. Just guessing |
| Prop |
Prop, one of the first inboard shock cars I can remember used a simple lever action off the upper control arm to the inboard shock. It was around the era of the Lotus type 49. Note the aero shaped upper control arms in the photo, those acted directly on the inboard mounted shocks. That system would be easier to adapt to the Spridget chassis I believe than using a tubular upper arm and a bell crank. Basically the upper control arm is the bell crank, changing the verticle up motion of the spindle to a down motion on the shock.
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| B Young |
| ner, bump steer is due to the geometry of the suspension and the steering arms and the arcs they travel through whilst the wheel moves up and down. Malcolm |
| M Le Chevalier |
| Here's another look at bellcranks, this time on a Dallara. See pic. Note that this setup incorporates an anti-roll system via forward-facing push/pull rods. For that matter the old Rover 2000s used a bellcrank sort of arrangement to actuate horizontal springs that fed loads back into the passenger cell. I don't remember the details, but it was pretty interesting. -:G:-
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| Gryf Ketcherside |
| Do they still use beam axles in NASCAR? If you were to use the engine as a stressed member it may be possible to use that as a mounting point (would the vibration affect it?). Rover 2000s used bell cranks to provide space for a gas turbine. God I'm a mine of useless information. http://www.carbibles.com/suspension_bible.html Also gives a 3D model of bell cranks. |
| BH Harvey |
| I wouldn't advise using the engine as a stressed member as the engine is not rigidly attached to the chassis, therefore your mounting for the spring/shock (I assume this is what you want to mount to the engine!) would move in relation to the other suspension points and just balls everything up. Although... you could just bolt the engine to the chassis rigidly with no rubber mounts! :-) Malcolm |
| M Le Chevalier |
| Who needs rubber mounts, just bolt it in. |
| BH Harvey |
| Bolts huh ! ! ! ....weld that puppy in ... lol |
| Prop |
| My pal had solid engine mounts on his Midget Challenge class A car briefly... until pretty much everything bolted to the car came loose... Not an idea I'd bother to repeat, but I know some like to reinvent the wheel... |
| James Bilsland |
| 25 years ago, Modified and Super Modified dirt track racers in the Midwest routinely solid mounted their small-block Chevies. Not as much bolted to those, however. David "trivia R us" Lieb |
| David Lieb |
| aye, the vibration will shake everything loose so the liberal use of nylock nuts, thread locking compound and lock wire would be recommended if you were mad enough to want to rigidly mount the engine! Malcolm |
| M Le Chevalier |
| Sad because you would need to keep a dentist on. Your speed dial...or put springs under your seat |
| Prop |
| If you were to use a monoshock setup you could get rid of the ARB couldn't you... I quite like the idea of four way adjustable dampers with seperate fluid resevoirs, completly unnecessary but still. |
| BH Harvey |
| Sheeeee BH, Thems lynchen words around here....but i like the way you think |
| Prop |
This thread was discussed between 26/04/2011 and 29/04/2011
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