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MG Midget and Sprite General - Hi new to site ,june 12th deadline

Hi just got the bug again after 24 years of ownership.
1968 midget was my first car which i run for 9 months before i ran into a van that did a 3 point turn infront of me.The insurance took 6 months to pay out so hence another car was bought and the midget laid up.Four years later at a show at Harewood house i bought a new shell from Naylors brothers (well dad did).I spent numerous hours sorting out the poor workmanship before getting married,house kids etc.
The car has been on hold until I went to the classic car show at the NEC earlier on this year.Discovering 50 years on the Midget on June 12th, gave me a kick up the backside.So i'm working late every night and weekends to try and make the deadline.
The project has been made more difficult as the car & components were stored a unit that flooded 3 years ago.Hence engine & gearbox needing complete overhall and seemingly everthing else .

Just a few questions i presume the chassis plate reads the right way up looking over the ns wing?

The harness cable for the sender unit & pump ,does that pass over the stifferner in the boot (gusset) or behind the trim panel on the cockpit side?

Also there is an 1" difference in the pedal location to my original shell (nearer the transmission tunnel) hence i've needed to do a bit of surgery on the heater bracket is this another heritage balls up or was this done on the later models?

regards Jim

JR Hacking

Jim.

Welcome to this BBS and the wonderful life of Spridgets.

The early Heritage shells (which I'm guessing you have) were a sort of 'one type fits all' shell, so you'll find more than enough holes and fittings.

The later cars had a different pedal box to the earlier cars, but the postion was the same. The accelorator pedal should dictate where it all fits.

good luck with the project and we'll see you at Midget 50... :-)

Mark
M T Boldry

hi Jim -- good luck -hope to see you there -- where in w.yorks are you? - I'm in Morley Leeds
Mick struggling with the wiring

yes chassis plate reads right way up as you lean in over the nearside wing.
The wiring for pump and sender unit is part of rear loom which passes through the cockpit along the inner sill on the driver's side, goes into the inner rear wheelarch just behind the B pillar, over the hump, and inside the boot space it separates from the lighting loom, goes through a grommetted hole in the 'floor' of the rear inner wing space, then is clipped to the flange on the edge of the tank as it runs forward, round the corner and across the car. The pump wire separates and the sender unit wires continue along the front edge of the tank.
David Smith

Hi Jim

Welcome, nice to have you around

Yes mate

If you are standing at the nearside wing, looking down at the chassis plate with your knees against the front wheel (ish) the plate number should read "normally"

I think my wiring for the pump/gauge and the rear lights too passes along behind the Sill Trim Panel, up behind the b-post trim cover, over the inner wheel arch and behind the framework into the boot space, then by diverse grommets to the pump and tank unit.


via the cutouts in the side stiffener frame


Stop Press

just went to look!

That IS the route I put my loom through (a very long time ago)
Bill 1

Hi Jim, welcome

My previous Spridget was a very early Heritage shelled car so I appreciate that things don’t always line up first try, I now have a RWA Heritage shelled car

You may well know some or all of what I’m going to post now but things have changed a bit with bits for the car over the last 20 years and it might refresh your memory about or things

If you could borrow a copy of Terry Horler’s excellent book it could help with were things go, new print is looking likely to be on pre-ordered door mats 4-7 June, ot get from the author from this site - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-Sprite-Midget-Restorers-Austin-Healey/dp/1906133336/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304777950&sr=1-1

Also to help with where things go a paper copy of the (factory) Parts Catalogue (Ref: 0016) more on this below

And again invaluable is a copy of the owners Handbook – (Ref: 0057) more on this below

To follow - my usual advice now but it’s all relevant to rebuilds too:
Nigel Atkins

I've realised after second attempt that there were too many hyperlinks for one post so split into two

My advice to new or potential owners -

Buy an owners Handbook as it tells you so much you need to know as to own, drive, service and maintain your car - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html

Always have the battery in good condition and all battery connections and leads clean, secure and protected, same for all electrical wiring and connections

As soon as possible do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
fan belt

For a coolant change drain the whole system - engine block, rad and heater matrix if you can get any of these out to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing then all the better - the sequence is flush, back flush, flush, clean, flush, back flush and flush again until the water runs clear, refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind in tap water isn’t always the best water to use

Also change the rubber coolant hoses to silicone when you get the chance as new rubber ones tend to be poor quality now- http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/

Be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so don’t discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts

Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise and safety of the car greatly

Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent the problems that occur with lack of use, and to enjoy it

Every few weeks check your horn, wipers and all switches work and heater valve turns on and off (all no problem if you use the car regularly)

Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook

Drive in all weathers, the Midget hood should be very watertight if fitted correctly and the heater is more than adequate, if working correctly, for the small cabin

Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car

Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good as a paper copy like - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Parts_Lists_3.html

Cheers, enjoy your car
Nigel Atkins

Thanks for all your help,sorry i haven't got back before now but been working silly hours on it.7 days a week 8pm + most nights.

Newproblem encounted today hence P****d off and home early, fitted engine and gearbox to discover the damned propshaft will not fit in the new oilite bush i installed in the gearbox.
I thought i'd checked it but hey ho,hoping to get it half out with the forktruck and remove the remote assembly from underneath so i can have a mess with it.

Mick i'm a stone throw away from you at Mirfield.

The project still seems 2 steps forward and one back.
Thanks again regards Jim
JR Hacking

Hi Jim,
I'm next door to you too, I live in Crofton but work in Ravey next to the train station. If you want a bit of a hand let me know and I'll call in. Give us a bell on 07736 425739. I darken Micks door from time to time. He might call in if you've a windscreen that needs replacing.

It'll be touch and go whether I get my midget ready for the 12th, still up on stands waiting to be painted when this chuffing wind dies down. Then there's the rest of the car to put back together, test, and rolling road.

Oilite bush in the gearbox? Should be a normal oil seal shouldn' it?

Matt
Tarquin

Matt, there is a bush that the sliding yolk of the propshaft runs on in the back of the tailshaft casing, then there is the seal. I've never known one NOT fit yet.

Jim. Get yourself to Midget 50, drive down with Mick, he's leaving on the Sunday morning. Even if you take an alternative car, get there... It'll be a fantastic day.

I'll look forward to meeting you there... :-)

Mark.
M T Boldry

Hi guys, prop and engine now in what a sod that was had to press it out and back in several times and bore it out in the lathe I must have turned half of it away. Next question does the fuel gauge go nearest the driver or the oil temp unit?
Can't find no pics on web
Regards jim
Ps can you buy tickets on the gate or do you have to pre book?
JR Hacking

You are better booking as tickets on the day are more expensive.
rachmacb

oil / temp is nearer the driver.

Rob Armstrong

Jim that owners Handbook would show you that and a lot more you'll need to know - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html

and the parts catalogue is very usefull for layout (see my previous post) or you could get both and loads more information on this DVD - http://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/mg-midget-and-austin-sprite%3Cbr-%3E1964-to-1974/p21737
Nigel Atkins

Forgot about the owners manual been in loft today looking for it. Can't find it I'll have to order one, seems to be the norm for this car.
JR Hacking

if you order a new one the old one is bound to turn up then but you could pass the new one on as loads of owners need it :)
Nigel Atkins

JR - I can lend you a haynes until you find yours!!
Mick struggling with the wiring

This thread was discussed between 07/05/2011 and 23/05/2011

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